A Quick Guide on How to Buy/Pick Healthy Betta Fish

INTRODUCTION:  You all excited to be purchasing betta fish for the first time? Well, that's good to know.  But just be sure you don't make the same mistake too many first time betta keepers have made.  That is - buying a sick fish.  Because you're not just spending on a $5 moontail betta here.  Basically you're also investing in your tank set up including the heater, filter, decors, and all that jazz.  Not to mention, you're still not quite an expert at taking care of a sick betta. Betta fish care is one thing.  But you haven't even tried keeping a healthy betta yet, much less tend to an ill fish.  So here are some guidelines on what to look for the minute you walk in that pet store if you want a fish that has as long a betta fish life span as possible.

First, check out the place.  Try to see if there's any smell of dead animals.  If so it's possible that your bettas could be prone to bacteria or viral infection.  Not a good sign.

Next, try to spot the betta fish section and then try to find which of them is the healthiest.  How would you know?  Here's a checklist.

Color
The color should be vivid and bright.  A dull or pale betta can be sick or stressed out which could develop an illness anytime soon.  So you need to find one in which its color catches your eye the minute you lay eyes on it.

Eyes
Pick a betta that has clear, bright eyes.  Make sure they are not cloudy or this could be a sign of infection.  If the betta's got eyes that pop out, well it's not genetic. It simply tells you that it's sick so never pick it.

Fins
The betta's fins should be intact - no tears, no patches, no brown spots.  Also, a betta with a clear tip on its fin is a sign of regrowth which could mean that it's recovering from an illness called fin rot.  Now it's up to you if you want to pick one such as that.

Body
Look for a betta that has got no sores or tumors on its body.  The belly should not be bloated.

Movement/Behavior
So you see it's not just the physical aspect you're going to check on, but the betta's movement and behavior as well.  A normal, healthy betta seems very active, loves to swim to the surface, and gets aggressive with other bettas or sometimes just other fish around.  You will actually notice it flare its fins - which is typically a warning sign to other male betta splendens to back off.  Now if the betta you're checking on does not exhibit any of these signs or that it's not moving or not responding, then it could already be an inch away from its deathbed.  Certainly it's not a betta that has long life span stamped all over it. 

CONCLUSION: Basically these are the things to look for when picking healthy betta fish.  One last tip:  Try to buy a betta from a reputable breeder rather than commercial pet stores.  Since bettas coming from breeders are more likely to come out healthier and happier.  They are the experts on betta fish care after all so you're sure you're getting nothing but the best and healthiest betta around.

Reasons Why You Shouldn't Be Keeping Betta Fish in Tiny Bowls

INTRODUCTION: Oh that betta in a vase you saw at the pet store is just so tempting, isn't it? And what's not to like?  What with those sparkling marbles at the bottom.  A beautiful peace lily gracing things up above.  And of course, to top it off, an adorable and colorful male betta fish swimming inside the vase.  Maybe like this one?

You just can't wait to buy it.  Especially after reading the simple care instructions that say it's so easy to maintain after all.  It also said that no feeding is required since the fish basically just munches on the roots of the plant.  And what a perfect gift would this betta in a vase make as well.

Now don't be fooled by what your see or read about these peace lily betta vases. Because although you think the fish is living in a perfect place, it's not.  In fact, a vase like this is the worst place you could ever imagine to house your veiltail.  And by the way bettas are carnivores.  They would only eat plants or their roots as their last resort.  Just before starving to death that is.

All of which makes this peace lily set up a very bad idea. The same goes for keeping betta fish in tiny bowls.  That despite what you may have heard.  In fact here are the main reasons why vases and bowls are an absolute no-no for bettas.  (For more insights check out http://www.better-bettas.com/care/female-betta-fish/ )

Bowls Are Bad For Bettas Reason #1: Fluctuating Temps
Bettas thrive in a water that's held steady at some point between 76-82 degrees Fahrenheit. This is why you need to keep it that way by installing a heater in the tank. (note the word "tank".) Since there is no room for any heater to be installed in a bowl or vase, fluctuating temperatures are all but inevitable.  Which means the betta cannot escape falling prey to all manner of infections and diseases.

Bowls Are Bad For Bettas Reason #2: Too Small Space
Bowls are simply too small.  There isn't enough room for the likely male beta to roam around much less any space for you to put some decorations. Well, silk plants and rocks actually benefit bettas more than just the enhancing the setting since these would also serve as hiding places for them especially when they're stressed out or feel threatened.

Bowls Are Bad For Bettas Reason #3: No Room for Filters
Filters are really not required in any betta fish tank but they can certainly help keep the water up to your fish's high standards. With bowls however it would be impossible for you to install a filter. All of which can leave your fish worse for wear, especially when you consider the effects all the uneaten food and fish waste that might settle on the bottom of such a small set up.

Certainly bettas can thrive in cycled fish tanks without a filter that are kept in balance by partial water changes.   (Full water changes could be too stressful for the betta.)   Still the water can easily slip below minimum standards.  And crappy water conditions (no pun intended) are the leading cause of premature betta death.  

CONCLUSION: In a nutshell, betta fish just don't do well in tiny bowls and vases. This small amount of water is certainly a far cry from the natural environment they're used to or supposed to be in. So while a betta in a vase may sound like a dream décor for you, certainly your betta would take it as its worst nightmare. Which can't be what you would have in mind for a pet.

Acclimating Betta Fish Made Easy

INTRODUCTION: If you got a betta fish for the first time and you feel like you're already a pro since you've got the tank all set up, well you should be able to figure out the missing piece here.  You see setting up your tank is not enough to make sure your betta feels comfortable in his new home.  How you place Phineas in your tank matters a lot.  And this is serious. One wrong move could leave your fishy friend stressed out and sick.  Susceptible to any number of betta fish diseases.  And this is exactly why you need to properly acclimatize any betta to its new home.

The key here is to put the least amount of stress possible to your betta.  And this can be done by not simply dumping the little guy directly into the tank water.  You never do this.  You never want to simply release the betta from its pet store bag or cup directly into its new home.  Instead, let it float inside the tank for 15-60 minutes.  This allows the water inside the pet store bag to adjust its temperature and level with the tank water's temp.   The bigger the bag, the longer it needs to be floated.

That's part one of acclimation.  Part two involves adding water from the tank into the bag.  Some like to add a small amount of tank water into the bag every 5 minutes. This helps your male or female betta fish to adjust to the different pH and such of its new watery kingdom.  Failure to do this can be a shocking experience too.

Once you've let the bag float long enough or after the bag is half filled with tank water, it's time to release the fish into its private preserve.  Note you don't want to just dump the contents, fish, water and all in.  Reason being the water your fish was in may not be the best - which is putting it mildly.  Hopefully the water you are introducing him to is.  So rather than pollute the tank with tainted even toxic water, you want to extract the fish from the bag so you can dispose of the water he came in.

Obviously you can do this using a net.  But there is always the danger of your betta's fins getting damaged and you don't want that.  So a better option would be to scoop out the fish with your hand.  As much as possible, do not let any of the water in the bag get in the tank since the pet store water is home to many bacteria and who knows what that can make your betta really sick really.  (I mean you've seen some of the big box store bettas haven't you?) Just be sure to immediately dump the pet store water down the drain immediately after you've  transferred the betta into the tank.

Okay but what if the betta you got from the pet store was transported in a plastic cup rather than a plastic bag?  Would you still do the same thing?  No, not really.  Instead here are two different options you can choose from to acclimate the fish in this case.

First option is to gently transfer the betta and the existing water from the cup into your own say ziplock baggie.  Then repeat the acclimation process as just outlined.

Second option is to let your little betta male cool his heels in the cup.  Gradually add a bit of water tank water every 2-4 minutes and this whole process should take about 20-30 minutes. Then you may now remove Phineas from the cup and slowly release him into the tank.  Again, bring in the least amount of cup water into the tank. With this option it may take a longer while for the cup water to stabilize.

Another challenge you may come across here is how to let the cup float without tipping over.  Simple.  Place the cup in your net and use the net to support the cup.  It can be tricky.  But you should be able to position the cup in the net without having to hold it during the acclimation period.

CONCLUSION: Only then can you say that you're a pro in betta fish keeping once you've done all this.  Phineas will surely thank you for acclimating him to his new home.  Since you'll never know the stresses that come along.

What Kind of Fish Can Betta Fish Live With?

INTRODUCTION: Okay so you've finally brought home a pet for the first time. Nope it's not a four legged fur ball from the nearby pet shop. But a fiery red, crowntail that just looks amazing.  So you placed him in your beautifully decorated 2.5 gallon tank. Then you suddenly realized how it could be lonesome for this poor guy to be all alone with no one to swim around with.  So you're considering getting him a companion.  Or two. But trust me on this.  Your betta is better off alone.  Anyone who knows how to take care of a betta fish will tell you this.

For a reason.  Betta fish are very aggressive in nature they really don't like being around with other finny creatures.  Even in their natural habitat, these guys prefer to live separately.  These underwater hermits are famous for their combative skills.  So much so they have been labeled as the infamous Siamese fighting fish.  They have even been used in for sport or so called entertainment as an unfortunate few were made to fight against each other.  Not the best way to maximize their lifespan although if you click here you will get some great tips for doing just that.

With this said, you fairly well know now that mixing a betta with another betta or any other species of fish for that matter could end up in a blood bath.   Which isn't really fair to the fish.  Besides someone has to be the adult and make the hard decisions.

Yet what do fish keeping experts have to say? Well as you'd expect they strongly discourage betta cohabitation with other bettas or mixing them with any other fish for that matter.  But should you really insist it's still possible for these somewhat feisty fish to live with other fish provided that the set up and tank mates selected meet a few criteria.

First, you need to choose the right size of tank.  A 2.5 gallon container would not make a good community tank.   Instead, you will need at least a 10 gallon aquarium. This way, your betta is able to mark his territory while the other fish are still able to waltz around without invading the crowntail's space.  This way they can all go along to get along.

Next, you have to carefully educate yourself as to which kind of fish are not compatible with your Siamese fighting fish.  This means you can never mix male or female bettas with these creatures at all cost.  So what are they?  Here are two.

The Colorful Ones
These are those that resemble the color or form of finny rivals such as long tailed guppies.  Are the bettas jealous of other fish that are just as colorful as they are?  Who knows?  Maybe they can't stand the competition.  In any case let's just say betta fish are divas in their own right.  And no other fish with long, flowing fins that might be mistaken for an interloper can escape the attention of envious bettas.

The Fin Nippers
Surprisingly it's not only bettas that are capable of inflicting harm on other fish.  But there are also other species that can inflict pain on them.  Tiger barbs for one are notorious for fin nipping.  Some tetra species are another.  So it should be obvious they don't make the list of potential tank mates.  At least not if proper betta care is high on your list. 

CONCLUSION:  Lastly, there's one other point you need to keep in mind.  Like us not all betta fish have the same personality.  So not all fighting fish have the same fighting temperament. Although some are in a terminally bad mood not all of them are ill-tempered.  Which is to say you can't always predict how things are going to work out.  So once you put the betta in the community tank, be sure to watch them closely. Observe their behavior.  Carefully look for signs of them getting aggressive with another fish or the other way around.  In such case you may have no other choice but to house your prized betta away from all the other fish in the tank.  Which brings you back to the whole idea that bettas are really best to be left alone.

The Myths and the Basics of Betta Fish Feeding

INTRODUCTION: People may not be aware but one primary key to increasing the lifespan of your betta is to feed it right.  (You can click here for other tips on maximizing their life span.)  It's just sad how many betta fish owners don't even have a clue how to feed their bettas right.  It's either they give betta fish the wrong type of food.  Or that they tend to overfeed the betta by giving them more food or feed more frequently than they should.  It's therefore imperative that you ignore these myths about betta fish feeding you may have heard and learn the basics from scratch.

Betta Fish False Fact #1:  Feed your betta every time it gets hungry.
But bettas are "hungry" all the time.  You will soon learn they seem to be ravenous eaters so don't be fooled by their deceptive behavior.  Bettas have tummies as large as their eye so how can one expect it to consume so much food?  Over feeding is a mistake in more ways than one.  Visit here to learn more about overfeeding's role in betta fish diseases.

Betta Fish False Fact #2:  Feed bettas with vegetable based foods.
This type of food should never, or at least very seldom, be given to bettas.  They have a specific diet plan.  That would go heavy meat, not veggies.  Sure they may not be joining any bodybuilding competition but their constant, all-consuming swimming requires them to eat a lot of protein to give them the fuel they need.  The only exception perhaps is when the betta gets constipated and you treat it by feeding a single bit of mashed pea.  But that's the only time.

Betta Fish False Fact #3:  You can feed bettas ordinary fish pellets.
Again, bettas have higher nutritional requirements. And ordinary fish pellets cannot provide them with complete nutrition.  Not even tropical pellets can supply them with what they need.  That's why you really need to feed them with betta fish pellets. These are usually floating pellets and they are usually a combination of different food sources.  Moreover, you cannot rely with betta pellets alone since many of these contain fillers which in no way benefit bettas.

Betta Fish False Fact #4:  Feed your bettas everyday.
It is recommended that you fast bettas once a week.  I don't know but that's just how it works if you want your betta to be healthy.  So don't be scared if your betta doesn't get to eat in a day. That's even helpful to your betta.

Betta Fish False Fact #5:  Directly feed frozen foods to your betta.
Unless you want your betta to choke up, don't ever feed frozen food directly to your betta.  It has to be thawed first.  And you can soak it in a small amount of tank water to shorten the thawing time.  However, any excess food that has been thawed should be thrown away and not saved for next time or refrozen.  That's just inviting problems.

It's funny how so many betta fish owners commit these mistakes when it comes to feeding their prized bettas.

Lastly, here are some quick guidelines when feeding your bettas to ensure they get the complete nutrition they need.

Vary your betta's diet.  Feed them with pellets one day, frozen food the next day, and live food after the next.  Bettas easily get bored when you don't vary their diet.

Feed your bettas 1-2 pellets per meal twice a day.  If you give them more than what they need, they might get bloated.  Or any uneaten food can make the tank water dirty.  Remove any uneaten food and never let it settle and then sit at the bottom of the tank.

CONCLUSION: After all this you should now be better able to answer the "What do betta fish eat?" question, don't you think?  While you may not know EVERYTHING about betta fish feeding, you should know more now than before you stopped by. Happy mealtime! For your betta that is.

Betta Fish Care Basics: How Much Does Owning a Betta Fish Cost

Now that you’ve decided to get yourself a flashy betta fish, the next best step is to secure the equipment. But do you have the funds? Kidding. Setting up a betta fish tank is not really all that expensive. In fact, you can already complete a nice tank set up with less than $40 on hand. So let’s help you complete your list and look into how much exactly you’re going to pay for what on the road to better betta care.

Fish tank - $5-$30
The bigger the water holder you select, the more costly of course. But I highly recommend you get the biggest tank possible for the sake of your betta. That's if you want to increase its betta fish lifespan.  Bettas really love to swim around. They’re quite hyperactive creatures. And while you’re at it, get one that comes equipped with a lid or hood since they also love to jump and you wouldn’t want them to stick a somersault landing on the floor.

Filter - $10
There are actually tanks sold as kits that come with filter. But if you’re buying one separately, make sure you choose one that has the mildest flow. Some betta fish keepers even skip sticking filters in their tank to begin with afraid that the water current may stress the betta wearing them out or worse making them sick. But a filter is a must have if you’re planning to cycle your tank. So a filter is really necessary rather than optional if you wish to keep your fish’s water clean at all times. But say you already have a filter that produces strong flow. Here’s what you do. Slow that torrent down by positioning the plants near the filter output so they partially divert the flow.

Heater - $7
The cost of heater actually depends on the wattage. And the number of watts you should get basically depends on your tank size. So remember that the number of gallons to heat is a primary consideration when choosing your heater. You will find there are different types of heaters. And while it comes down to personal preference, the most common one used by betta keepers is the submersible type.

Betta Fish - $2-$20
Bettas breeders have been busy. So you will soon come to find out that these guys come in a dizzying array of colors and fin types. It can be hard to decide honestly. Then too you have to choose between keeping a male or a female betta. Although the males of the species are more popular since they are much more colorful than the females anymore the girls come equipped with more sophisticated tail types as well.

Now many would recommend buying directly from a breeder as even their culls are better than what you can find at Petco. But they may be more expensive too than when you buy one from a local pet store. Yet there’s an advantage to the "buy from breeders only" plan. Breeders have a wider selection of fish and they see to it that they only sell healthy bettas to betta keeper wannabes. Unlike those sold in some local pet shops where there are greater chances for you to get an older and sickly betta. It’s only logical they may be more stressed having been housed in a tiny plastic bowl or cup.

Betta Fish Food - $2-$5
When buying betta fish food be sure to get a variety that includes pellets, flakes, live, and frozen foods. Some bettas are picky eaters so you really do need to vary their diet. And fasting them once a week is also said to be necessary to keep them healthy.

Tank Decor - $3-$10
Silk plants are recommended over plastic plants since the latter may have sharp edges that may tear your betta’s fins. Rocks and other figurines are also important because they do more than just enhancing the aesthetics of the tank. They actually serve as hiding places for those times they feel threatened or just feel like it.

There you have it. Setting up your own tank can really be a whole lot of fun. And it doesn’t have to be a whole lot expensive to get the right stuff either. Do so, and all that’s left is to properly acclimate your betta to its new and humble abode and you’re set.

The Truth About Healthy Bettas

We all want our pets to be healthy and happy. Which is why Molly, a 34 year old real estate agent was frantic when she saw her male betta surrounded by a nest of bubbles for the first time. She thought her beloved Blugree (a bluish green fantail betta) has been poisoned or something. And that was why he was blowing bubbles on the surface of the tank. She didn’t know what to make of it. And without the proper insights into how to take care of a betta fish, you too could be like Molly.

A quick search online about betta and bubbles allowed Molly to relax. A betta building its bubble nest is a good sign your betta is healthy. It suggests that like Goldilocks he finds the water conditions to be just right.
Since that’s just one of the little known truths about healthy betta behavior let’s delve deeper and try to differentiate then which signs define a healthy one from the signs of a sick one.

Signs of a Healthy Betta
Generally signs of a healthy betta come down to behavior and appearance.

The very first sign you’d notice in a healthy betta is that it vigorously swims at the top of the tank. Yes, it’s normal for some bettas to be hyperactive and cover a lot of territory in a short period of time.

Also a male betta regularly blowing bubbles is another sign of a healthy behavior.

Another sign of good health is a voracious appetite. All fish love to eat and will try desperately to convince you that they are hungry. (But this should not mean that you feed your betta every time it asks for food. This is instinctive behavior as they never know for sure where their next meal is coming from. Know what I mean?)  They are truly expert beggars alright.  But as the adult in this relationship want to ask him “Should a little betta fish really eat that much?” Not “What do you think?” Your fighting fish is the last one you should be asking about portion side, but I digress.  

Check out the body of your betta. Its color should be vibrant and its entire body, from head to tail, should be free from white or brown spots. The fins should be expanded and not appear clamped. There should be no lumps on the body or any loose scales. The gills should look normal and they should fully retract behind the gill covers. The eyes should be clear and not protruded. And the size of both eyes should look to be about the same.

Telltale Signs of a Sick Betta
One or some of these signs suggest your betta might be sick. (click here for more on betta fish diseases)

Usually you’d notice them to be acting different. For example, the betta might have decreased appetite, repeatedly spits out its food, or refuses to eat at all.

Or it has a hard time swimming or does so awkwardly. Or it may not swim at all. Choosing instead to be inactive, lethargic, and preferring to stay at the bottom of the tank. So if your guy just sits on the bottom like a bump on a log you can bet he isn’t doing all that well.

Appearance-wise, the eyes may appear popped out or look hazy. The fins are clamped or tattered. The gills do not open or close well. The color can be pale or dull. Try to check on the body and look for any cottony patches, brown spots, or opens sores. One kind of betta fish disease is characterized by tiny, white specks covering the body like grains of salt. Another sign of a sick betta is if it has raised scales or the belly is severely distended. A betta swimming awkwardly may also be a sign of an ill betta.

Who would ever want to see their betta sick? That’s why you need to keep your fish healthy at all times so you don’t have to worry about treating your sickly finny friend. Of course you need to make sure your betta is kept in an optimum fish tank environment. That goes without saying that it has to be kept in a tank large enough for it to swim around and one filled with warm, clean, and toxin-free water.