All About Betta Fish Fin Rot

INTRODUCTION: Does your betta have a brown spot on its fin? Well don’t just sit there and think it could just be part of your betta’s molting process because it’s not. If that’s what you’re thinking, clearly there are still a lot of things you need to know about bettas.

You see that nasty looking edge of your betta’s fin could be a condition called fin rot.  Ranking right up there with constipation, it's one of the more common ailments these guys are prone to.

And yes by the term itself it’s basically characterized by the rotting away of your betta’s beautiful, yet rather fragile fin. Believe it or not should you fail to react properly, the bacteria could eventually eat up the entire fin leaving your once healthy female betta somewhat disfigured. So let’s find out how we can give a quick remedy to betta fish fin rot and salvage your betta’s future before it’s too late.

But first, a few myths about betta fin rot, loosely extracted from http://www.better-bettas.com which you should shrug off:

Myth #1: Fin rot is not a deadly disease.
Fact: Fin rot may be curable but if you leave it untreated, the bacteria could actually enter the body and this could result to death.

Myth #2: Fin rot is not caused by dirty water.
Fact: Well if there’s one thing that causes fin rot, it would be filthy water. Any uneaten food left in the tank could easily make the water dirty. So be sure not to overfeed your betta so no leftover settles on the bottom of the tank. Failing to change the tank water regularly can lead to very poor water quality. So be sure to change at least 20% of water in a cycled tank even if you have a filter installed.

Myth #3: If the water looks clean, then it must be clean. No need to use a water test kit.
Fact: This is one common mistake betta fish owners make assuming that the water is clean since it looks clear. But don’t be deceived by this. No matter how crystal clear the water may look, it could still contain some traces of ammonia or nitrates that are very deadly to bettas or other fish for that matter. So always equip yourself with a betta test kit so you can constantly monitor the toxin levels of the tank water.

Now that we’ve got all these myths uncovered, let’s go back to solving the problem of betta fish fin rot. First is to take everything out of the tank. Then begin cleaning the inside of the tank with water. Please do not use soap or any kind of detergent since any trace of it left may intoxicate your poor betta. Then, clean all the other tank accessories as well including the filter, heater, substrate, plants, and other items used to decorate the tank.

Once you’ve already placed new water into the tank (take note: make sure it has already been conditioned!) along with all the accessories and the fish, apply a solution of fungus eliminator to the water. For a speedier recovery, add a quarter or half teaspoon of aquarium salt for every gallon of tank water.

In a couple of days, you should notice the betta’s fin showing a whitish or clear tip which is a sign of regrowth and that the betta is already healing. So continue doing some partial water changes every week to make sure that the water is clean and your fish stays healthy.

However, if your betta has a severe case of fin rot where the fin has already apparently grown shorter, you may need to do more than a simple water change. In this case, you would need to treat the betta with an antibacterial medication such as Tetracycline or Myxazine. Please note though that while the fin may still grow back at this point, it may no longer be as long as it originally was before. And the color may not be the same. But at least you’re able to save what’s left of it.

CONCLUSION: Once you’ve successfully treated your feisty male betta’s fin rot bet you can’t afford letting this occur ever again. So while you stay vigilant in keeping the water clean you might also want to ensure that its temp is at its optimum range to make sure your betta’s got your immune system all beefed up.

The Keys to Your Betta’s Healthy Bowel

INTRODUCTION: For those looking for an easy routine to return your betta to greater regularity here’s a foolproof system that anyone can follow.

Fasting – 2-4 days : maintenance – once per week
Once you notice that your betta is constipated (common symptoms are bloated tummy and less waste products released) immediately put your betta into a fasting phase for 2-4 days. This is necessary to allow the betta’s system to clear out its bowel.

Pea – 2-4 days
After fasting your betta, prepared a cooked pea to feed your betta for 2-4 days. The pea should be cooked and then mashed. And only feed a pinch of it to your betta and not the entire piece. This should be enough to help cleanse the betta’s digestive system.

Epsom salt bath
Should fasting and feeding peas to the betta not do the trick your next move is to reach for the Epsom salt. The remedy is simple. Add a teaspoon of Epsom salt for every 2 gallons of tank water. However, this could be tedious if you do this right into your bettas current tank since you would need to get rid of the salt afterwards. Which means that you need to do full water change which is stressful to your betta.

The best alternative here is to treat your betta to an Epsom salt bath. Provide a separate tank for your constipated betta and add ½ teaspoon of Epsom salt into ½ gallon water. Place the betta in the tank and let
him enjoy the water for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, do at least a 20% water change in your betta’s original tank so your pampered betta goes back to cleaner water.

Yet as pointed was out in the post entitled  "Curing Betta Fish Constipation How to Give a Betta Fish Exlax",  if you didn't feed your betta too much too often you may not need to be all that concerned about your fish's digestive tract.  Yet now at least, should you unintentionally overfeed,  you have a routine that can help your fish get regular again.

CONCLUSION: Curing betta fish should be easy once you know what remedies are available. Again, your friend shouldn’t be dealing with this problem anymore now that you know what keeps his bowel healthy.

For more on betta fish diseases or other related topics be sure to stop by http://www.better-bettas.com/.

Curing Betta Fish Constipation: How to Give a Betta Fish Exlax

INTRODUCTION: Did you know betta fish can get constipated too? Did you know there’s a betta equivalent of exlax? If you didn’t know that the answer to both questions is a resounding “YES!” then you definitely need to read on. Because when it comes to how to take care of betta fish, this is important to know.

You see if you think you’re the only one who’s not been able to make the most out of their visits to john lately, you’re not alone. Believe it or not even our finny friends also have their share of bowel problems. Especially when fed a rich diet of live food that overwhelms their digestive system.

Luckily it’s not a matter of life and death for them actually (since this isn’t exactly one of the betta fish diseases they are prone to). At least most of the time things will work themselves out. But if you leave these poor guys unhelped, then it just could be a bigger problem than you might imagine.

Besides can you take the thought of seeing your prized betta looking all sluggish, just sitting on the bottom of the tank the entire day? Not what a typical betta would do, is it? Since a healthy and happy betta would be so restless, swimming about and checking his domain to make sure all is well. Irregularity will do that to a guy.

So let’s play betta fish doctor for a bit and see if we can’t get to the bottom of what causes the constipation in the first place to help you treat the problem. So what are the typical causes? Here’s three.

Too much food, too frequent feeding
Constipation in betta fish may be caused by feeding too much food or feeding too frequently. In short, overfeeding. Ideally, betta fish should be fed not more than twice a day. And you should limit the amount of food to around 1-3 pellets per meal. If you’re feeding live foods, 1-2 pieces should be more than enough.

Boring diet
Bettas can be finicky eaters. Give them the same kind of food every day and they’re going to get tired of it eventually. Worse, this could develop into constipation. Especially when their main grub solely comes from rich, live food sources like brine shrimp or bloodworms. Ideally, you’d need to vary the food of your betta giving him specially formulated betta pellets and flakes alternately with a dose of brine shrimp, tubifex worms, or mosquito larvae maybe once a week or so.

Stress
Many betta fish experts say that stress could also be the reason why bettas get constipated. How do the fish get stressed? Well, in a lot of ways. 100% water changes can be stressful to bettas. Placing the tank in a high traffic area could also stress out your betta making it feel somewhat nauseated basically because they love to gaze at people.

CONCLUSION: Now that you know what might have caused your betta’s condition, you should then be able to make the necessary changes in the way you’re currently taking care of your betta. Although for now the best you can do is to come up with remedies for relieving the betta’s constipated condition. If you’d like, why not read more about the keys to your betta’s bowel.

The Perfect Mismatch: Betta Fish and Gold Fish

Thinking of keeping a betta with a goldfish? Don’t. It’s the perfect mismatch. You can’t get any worse. Sure they may try to get along and all, but even if they do, their water requirements aren’t anywhere near the same. And the goldfish won’t be doing your betta any favors in that department.

Not to mention the fact that goldfish can grow to a rather large size. And the tank could literally be too little room for both your gold fish and betta. Okay, okay, sure the gold fish may be stunted and all living in cramped quarters. But it that really good for it?

Point is. Bettas and goldfish are the worst match possible. Like keeping chocolate in your pocket on a hot day. Or big hair in a hurricane. Or doing xBox with a runny nose. Disasters one and all.

Goldies and bettas don’t mix well either. Despite what this video appears to show.

Okay so if this is not enough to convince you, let’s find out some of the real things gold fish and male bettas disagree about.

First, bettas and gold fish have different temperature requirements. Goldfish are cold water fish so they thrive in water at 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit. Then again bettas are tropical water fish so they thrive in a temperature range between 72 and 85 degrees. Otherwise putting your betta in a cold water environment will just about guarantee sooner or later you’ll have one sick betta fish on your hands. While putting a goldfish in warm water may allow them to survive this will not make them thrive. So while you wouldn’t think to install a heater in a goldfish tank, a heater is a must in any betta fish tank.

Second, bettas are "obsessive compulsive." Any amount of toxin in their water can leave them sick and dead. You need to ensure their water is clean at all times. With that said, you need to constantly monitor the water’s pH as well as its levels of ammonia and nitrates. Now if you put goldfish in a betta fish tank, they are known to excrete a humongous amount of waste toxic to bettas.

Since goldfish are (ahem) what you might call heavy poopers. So you need to install a strong and powerful filter in their tank. Now the bettas, seeing’s they go heavy on the fins may not be able to withstand such strong currents. It’s too stressful for them. Either the current could damage their delicate finnage or they might find it difficult to swim through heavy flow of water. Although it’s still possible to place a filter in any betta fish tank especially if you’re having a cycled tank, but you can always look for ways to somehow control the flow.

Third, goldfish could grow as much as one foot long so if you’re only putting up a 5-gallon tank, there wouldn’t be a room enough for the goldfish to swim around much less share some space with your betta. The goldfish could also pick on the tiny betta and you wouldn’t want to see your betta with tattered fins.

Lastly, bettas and goldfish feed on different types of food. While goldfish are vegans, bettas are carnivores. And even if you throw different foods into the tank, the goldfish may still outcompete and elbow aside your betta. Leaving them hungry and cold.

Perhaps now you see why bettas and goldfish are the perfect mismatch. So don’t push it. Instead, try to look for other fish that are more compatible with these somewhat finicky bettas – if you need to put any other fish with them at all. 

A Quick Guide on How to Buy/Pick Healthy Betta Fish

INTRODUCTION:  You all excited to be purchasing betta fish for the first time? Well, that's good to know.  But just be sure you don't make the same mistake too many first time betta keepers have made.  That is - buying a sick fish.  Because you're not just spending on a $5 moontail betta here.  Basically you're also investing in your tank set up including the heater, filter, decors, and all that jazz.  Not to mention, you're still not quite an expert at taking care of a sick betta. Betta fish care is one thing.  But you haven't even tried keeping a healthy betta yet, much less tend to an ill fish.  So here are some guidelines on what to look for the minute you walk in that pet store if you want a fish that has as long a betta fish life span as possible.

First, check out the place.  Try to see if there's any smell of dead animals.  If so it's possible that your bettas could be prone to bacteria or viral infection.  Not a good sign.

Next, try to spot the betta fish section and then try to find which of them is the healthiest.  How would you know?  Here's a checklist.

Color
The color should be vivid and bright.  A dull or pale betta can be sick or stressed out which could develop an illness anytime soon.  So you need to find one in which its color catches your eye the minute you lay eyes on it.

Eyes
Pick a betta that has clear, bright eyes.  Make sure they are not cloudy or this could be a sign of infection.  If the betta's got eyes that pop out, well it's not genetic. It simply tells you that it's sick so never pick it.

Fins
The betta's fins should be intact - no tears, no patches, no brown spots.  Also, a betta with a clear tip on its fin is a sign of regrowth which could mean that it's recovering from an illness called fin rot.  Now it's up to you if you want to pick one such as that.

Body
Look for a betta that has got no sores or tumors on its body.  The belly should not be bloated.

Movement/Behavior
So you see it's not just the physical aspect you're going to check on, but the betta's movement and behavior as well.  A normal, healthy betta seems very active, loves to swim to the surface, and gets aggressive with other bettas or sometimes just other fish around.  You will actually notice it flare its fins - which is typically a warning sign to other male betta splendens to back off.  Now if the betta you're checking on does not exhibit any of these signs or that it's not moving or not responding, then it could already be an inch away from its deathbed.  Certainly it's not a betta that has long life span stamped all over it. 

CONCLUSION: Basically these are the things to look for when picking healthy betta fish.  One last tip:  Try to buy a betta from a reputable breeder rather than commercial pet stores.  Since bettas coming from breeders are more likely to come out healthier and happier.  They are the experts on betta fish care after all so you're sure you're getting nothing but the best and healthiest betta around.

Reasons Why You Shouldn't Be Keeping Betta Fish in Tiny Bowls

INTRODUCTION: Oh that betta in a vase you saw at the pet store is just so tempting, isn't it? And what's not to like?  What with those sparkling marbles at the bottom.  A beautiful peace lily gracing things up above.  And of course, to top it off, an adorable and colorful male betta fish swimming inside the vase.  Maybe like this one?

You just can't wait to buy it.  Especially after reading the simple care instructions that say it's so easy to maintain after all.  It also said that no feeding is required since the fish basically just munches on the roots of the plant.  And what a perfect gift would this betta in a vase make as well.

Now don't be fooled by what your see or read about these peace lily betta vases. Because although you think the fish is living in a perfect place, it's not.  In fact, a vase like this is the worst place you could ever imagine to house your veiltail.  And by the way bettas are carnivores.  They would only eat plants or their roots as their last resort.  Just before starving to death that is.

All of which makes this peace lily set up a very bad idea. The same goes for keeping betta fish in tiny bowls.  That despite what you may have heard.  In fact here are the main reasons why vases and bowls are an absolute no-no for bettas.  (For more insights check out http://www.better-bettas.com/care/female-betta-fish/ )

Bowls Are Bad For Bettas Reason #1: Fluctuating Temps
Bettas thrive in a water that's held steady at some point between 76-82 degrees Fahrenheit. This is why you need to keep it that way by installing a heater in the tank. (note the word "tank".) Since there is no room for any heater to be installed in a bowl or vase, fluctuating temperatures are all but inevitable.  Which means the betta cannot escape falling prey to all manner of infections and diseases.

Bowls Are Bad For Bettas Reason #2: Too Small Space
Bowls are simply too small.  There isn't enough room for the likely male beta to roam around much less any space for you to put some decorations. Well, silk plants and rocks actually benefit bettas more than just the enhancing the setting since these would also serve as hiding places for them especially when they're stressed out or feel threatened.

Bowls Are Bad For Bettas Reason #3: No Room for Filters
Filters are really not required in any betta fish tank but they can certainly help keep the water up to your fish's high standards. With bowls however it would be impossible for you to install a filter. All of which can leave your fish worse for wear, especially when you consider the effects all the uneaten food and fish waste that might settle on the bottom of such a small set up.

Certainly bettas can thrive in cycled fish tanks without a filter that are kept in balance by partial water changes.   (Full water changes could be too stressful for the betta.)   Still the water can easily slip below minimum standards.  And crappy water conditions (no pun intended) are the leading cause of premature betta death.  

CONCLUSION: In a nutshell, betta fish just don't do well in tiny bowls and vases. This small amount of water is certainly a far cry from the natural environment they're used to or supposed to be in. So while a betta in a vase may sound like a dream décor for you, certainly your betta would take it as its worst nightmare. Which can't be what you would have in mind for a pet.

Acclimating Betta Fish Made Easy

INTRODUCTION: If you got a betta fish for the first time and you feel like you're already a pro since you've got the tank all set up, well you should be able to figure out the missing piece here.  You see setting up your tank is not enough to make sure your betta feels comfortable in his new home.  How you place Phineas in your tank matters a lot.  And this is serious. One wrong move could leave your fishy friend stressed out and sick.  Susceptible to any number of betta fish diseases.  And this is exactly why you need to properly acclimatize any betta to its new home.

The key here is to put the least amount of stress possible to your betta.  And this can be done by not simply dumping the little guy directly into the tank water.  You never do this.  You never want to simply release the betta from its pet store bag or cup directly into its new home.  Instead, let it float inside the tank for 15-60 minutes.  This allows the water inside the pet store bag to adjust its temperature and level with the tank water's temp.   The bigger the bag, the longer it needs to be floated.

That's part one of acclimation.  Part two involves adding water from the tank into the bag.  Some like to add a small amount of tank water into the bag every 5 minutes. This helps your male or female betta fish to adjust to the different pH and such of its new watery kingdom.  Failure to do this can be a shocking experience too.

Once you've let the bag float long enough or after the bag is half filled with tank water, it's time to release the fish into its private preserve.  Note you don't want to just dump the contents, fish, water and all in.  Reason being the water your fish was in may not be the best - which is putting it mildly.  Hopefully the water you are introducing him to is.  So rather than pollute the tank with tainted even toxic water, you want to extract the fish from the bag so you can dispose of the water he came in.

Obviously you can do this using a net.  But there is always the danger of your betta's fins getting damaged and you don't want that.  So a better option would be to scoop out the fish with your hand.  As much as possible, do not let any of the water in the bag get in the tank since the pet store water is home to many bacteria and who knows what that can make your betta really sick really.  (I mean you've seen some of the big box store bettas haven't you?) Just be sure to immediately dump the pet store water down the drain immediately after you've  transferred the betta into the tank.

Okay but what if the betta you got from the pet store was transported in a plastic cup rather than a plastic bag?  Would you still do the same thing?  No, not really.  Instead here are two different options you can choose from to acclimate the fish in this case.

First option is to gently transfer the betta and the existing water from the cup into your own say ziplock baggie.  Then repeat the acclimation process as just outlined.

Second option is to let your little betta male cool his heels in the cup.  Gradually add a bit of water tank water every 2-4 minutes and this whole process should take about 20-30 minutes. Then you may now remove Phineas from the cup and slowly release him into the tank.  Again, bring in the least amount of cup water into the tank. With this option it may take a longer while for the cup water to stabilize.

Another challenge you may come across here is how to let the cup float without tipping over.  Simple.  Place the cup in your net and use the net to support the cup.  It can be tricky.  But you should be able to position the cup in the net without having to hold it during the acclimation period.

CONCLUSION: Only then can you say that you're a pro in betta fish keeping once you've done all this.  Phineas will surely thank you for acclimating him to his new home.  Since you'll never know the stresses that come along.