Saturday, December 29, 2012

Java Moss Tank Backdrop Made Easy

As a general rule, live plants will take the edge off an otherwise stark tank.  But a java moss wall can really set things off inside your betta's watery world. Creating a green backdrop to showcase their fins and colors.

One nice thing about java moss is no heavy fertilizing is required.  In fact like most water plants it will absorb what it needs from the water.  Nitrites are a particularly favorite food.  In fact bettatalk.com did a quick test on how well it absorbs nitrites.  The water quality of the jar with the java moss and betta tested out far and away to be much better than the jar housing a betta without.  This alone makes a compelling case for having some of this stuff in your tank.

Tip: Regardless of where you get it from it's always a good idea to dip your moss into a 5% bleach solution to kill off potential pathogens and wipe out any unwanted hitch hiking snails and so forth before adding it to your aquarium. 

Oh and another selling point here is it's easy on your betta's best feature, their fins. Even better this species of aquatic plant is almost what you'd call bullet proof.  It's just about impossible to put in a tank suitable for bettas only to find that a clump of the stuff doesn't thrive.

Tip:  The moss may suffer a bit of a setback initially.  That's okay. It's adjusting to the new water parameters and lighting conditions.  It will be fine in no time.

Nor does it require first class accommodations to do well.  It will do well so pretty much regardless of the temperature although it may prefer cooler temps.  And it's not all that demanding when it comes to light either.  Even ambient light will suffice most of the time.  And if you pay just the slightest bit of attention to the lighting it will really take off and grow like crazy. 

As most any moss, java moss lacks a real root system.  You need some way to hold it in place.  You can tie it, attach it to mesh or some like to set up a java moss wall much like this video tells you how to do:. 



This video starts off with a list things you'll need to create your java moss wall.  That would include
  1. Plastic crafters canvas or mesh
  2. Plastic canvas needles
  3. Fishing line
  4. Suction cups with hooks that you run thru the mesh from a craft store
  5. Of course clumps of java moss
If you wish for your "wall" to cover the entire back wall of your tank you'll need to measure and cut the canvas or mesh to the right size.  That is the right size when doubled over. 

Basically the approach commonly used requires creating a pouch. In this case it's done by stitching three edges closed.  Stitching seems easier than tying a series of knots along the edges as some suggest.  The idea is the same either way however. 

Next you want to stuff the pouch with sprigs of the moss.  Spreading it out over the entire area.  The more moss you use the thicker your wall vegetation.  Some LFS sell java moss by the pound.  Which is likely the deal wall builders want to find. 

Once the moss is all stuffed in, then stitch up the final side so no fish gets caught. 

Finally attach your suction cups to hold it against the back of your tank.  Flush. You don't want your inquisitive betta to try to go where no betta has gone before and drown.  Not exactly a life span extending move by your betta fish, I know. But don't underestimate their ability to do this. 

CONCLUSION: Okay so maybe a java moss wall isn't for everyone, but the affect can be lovely.  It softens or takes the edge off the tank and can remind you of the ivy in Wrigley Field for those who follow baseball.  Just don't start with the betta batter up stuff, okay?

Friday, December 28, 2012

5 Essential Betta Fish Care Do's That Don't Get Done

OPENING: How often have you checked out a betta forum only to see a slew of newbie questions one after another about disease, illness and sick bettas.  Given all those seeking sick betta fish care tips, it's enough to make one think there are no healthy fighting fish left, isn't it? 

Make no mistake it's not always easy to keep your beta in the pink.  It's not exactly easy to keep them doing laps of their tank for years.  And it is certainly not easy to have a male betta that never gets sick.  Problem is too many don't get around to doing some relatively simple tasks that can keep fighting fish healthy and bright eyed.  They fail to do these routine tasks and then act all shocked when their fish gets sick. 

Cardinal Care Rule #1: CTWS - Change the Water, Stupid 

The Mistake: Choosing to overlook the fact that poor water quality is the root of most betta health issues.

There is almost no problem with keeping crowntails, halfmoons or veiltails that regular water changes won't minimize.  If you've got a cycled tank replacing 20-25% of the water every 10 days or so ought to do it.  If your tank isn't cycled, then you'll want to replace more water more often. 

It's not hard.  It doesn't require any specialized skill.  It just requires that you do it.  Yet too often it doesn't get done to the detriment of your fish's health. 

Cardinal Care Rule #2: Bettas Are What They Eat

The Mistake: Flinging a few pellets in the tank and calling it good. 

After a while feeding your female CT is almost an afterthought.  You toss a few pellets into her bowl and off you go.  Which only goes to prove many are out to lunch when it comes to feeding their finny pets right. 

Hey!  Wake up and smell the grindal worms.  Wham, Bam, Time to Scram may work in some situations but not when it comes to feeding your bettafish.  At least not all the time.

  • In the case of betas, their eyes are LITERALLY not bigger than their stomachs.
  • Bargain basement betta food isn't the way to your betta's heart.
  • And just like you wouldn't like eating shredded wheat every day, neither does your betta appreciate eating the same commercial foods all the time.

Yet it's surprisingly not all the tough to come up with alternatives.  Doesn't even take much imagination.  Two types of pellets, something from the freezer and a catch of the day like mosquito larvae or daphnia every once in a while is a great way to keep your betta enthused about his diet. 

And if he didn't clean his plate be sure to remove the leftovers before they go bad. 

Yet with busy betta keepers this critical part of betta keeping all too often doesn't get done. 

Cardinal Care Rule #3 Some Like it HOT

The Mistake:  Not keeping his water temps stable at around 78 degree F. 

These guys are called tropical fish for a reason.  They are.  From the topics.  And they like it hot. 

Yet too often having a heater is more than the novice betta keeper cares to spring for.  I've seen all sorts of excuses offered up. Starving Student.  Mom wouldn't get it for me.  It was either that or the new video game and well the fish can wait.  No it can't.  A good submersible won't break the bank.  Counting on global warming won't cut it.  Besides if you don't get it now it likely won't ever get done. 

Cardinal Care Rule #4: They'd Rather Be Alone

The Mistake: Sticking your shimmering HMPK in a community tank with snarky types like some types of tetras or angels or other known fin nippers.  

You won't need to call a fish match maker if you would but simply keep your betta by himself.  Nor will water conditions, that can be iffy in an overcrowded tank, be an issue any time soon that way either. 

Bettas don't get lonely.  They don't crave companionship (have you ever seen their courtship ritual, it's literally a contact sport).  And they don't appreciate another betta within eyeshot.  All the posturing and flaring and racing adrenaline takes its toll, weakening their immune system and opening them up to all sorts of problems.  

Keep them in their own tank from the start or it's quite likely it won't ever get done. 

Cardinal Care Rule #5: Break It to Them Gently

The Mistake: Dumping your new betta into their new home without any introduction to the water conditions whatsoever.

Alright, this may not be a total deal breaker but it still isn't a good way to break your fish into his new home.  And it may account for the stories of new fish being found DOA the next morning.  Shock will do that do a guy.  So acclimate gently.  Float the bag to equalize the temperature slowly.  Add a tablespoon or two of water over the course of an hour to give them time to adjust to different water parameters.  Then scoop out the fish and release, dumping the dredges you grabbed him from down the sink. 

Given this is a once and done event if you don't do it right the first time you can bet it will never get done.

Finally here's a slightly different look at the same issue of caring for bettas.  More or less some of the same rules just worded different.



It's simple.  Good water quality and minimal stress are the formula for success.

A filtration system is helpful although not necessary if you are willing to commit to frequent water changes.  But that's not to say that with some sort of filtration you won't have to do water changes. You will.

Heaters are only necessary if you can't keep the water temp at least 72 degrees F.  Which pretty much means you need a heater if you live anywhere that gets cold during the winter. 

Solitude is the best way for both of you to enjoy successful betta mastery.  

CONCLUSION:  Bettas are not predestined to get sick and die young.  No, it's more the neglect of their keepers that puts them on a fast track to sickness.  Yet, and I repeat, it doesn't have to be that way.  They aren't all that demanding and even a simple betta fish care guide like this can make a difference for some.  Perhaps it's not for lack of know how but more that for some reason too many can't find the time that mundane care routines never get done. You decide. 

Thursday, December 27, 2012

What's the Ideal Betta Fish Water Temperature Q&A

OPENING:  When it comes to keeping your betta tank at a constant 78 degrees it's pretty much a no brainer that a reliable, submersible aquarium heater is the way to go.  But agreeing to that doesn't mean you agree that all your questions about bettas and water temperature have been dealt with.  Actually that's decidedly not the case as these follow up questions show. 

Question: What's the ideal water temp for bettas?

Okay so what temperature should betta fish water be?  If you are talking ideal temperature you want to keep it between 76 and 82 degrees.  Bettas can do okay in slightly higher temperature zones.  But they will frankly will not thrive for long in water that falls below 72 degrees for extended periods.  And overnight counts as an extended period. 

Question: I heard that if you keep them cooler they'll actually live longer?

Really?  Well, keeping any betta in water cooler than 72 degrees F will definitely NOT extend their lifespan.  If anything the added stress opens them up to disease which will tend to shorten how long they live if anything.  So anyone telling you that is simply misinformed.  And following that kind of advice isn't doing your fighting beta fish any favors. 

Question: Yeah but, is a fluctuation in temperature really all that dangerous?  Or maybe I should ask how much is too much?

Bettas are sensitive to what you might consider to be subtle changes in water temperature.  Even a degree or two is often too much.  So yes, fluctuations can be dangerous to their health.  Something to keep in mind about your crowntail betta fish's water temperature.

Question: What do you do about the heater when doing your partial water changes?

It you have it installed vertically in a corner it would be best to unplug it.  Even though anymore many models come equipped with an automatic shut off feature should the water get too low, why risk it?  It's not worth having your heater break on you. 

Question: Why do I see so some fish keepers with their heater placed horizontally in their tank? 

It's often just a personal preference, although there are some advantages to horizontal or diagonal placement of their submersible heaters at just an inch or so off the substrate. 

Here's why.  Heated water rises.  When it does so it will pull the cooler water off the bottom which will gently keep the water in the tank circulating.  This movement will also work to eliminate hot or cold spots.  Plus you won't have to worry about exposing your heater when doing water changes.  Or if you turn it off you won't have to try to remember to turn it back on. So it may be an all around better set up. So those may be some good reasons for placing it horizontally.

Question: How to you know how many watts you need?

The commonly used rule of thumb is to figure you'll need 4-5 watts per gallon.  Remember that the air temp in the room where you keep your bettas also plays a role in how many watts you'll need to keep the tank temp stable.  So if you keep it cooler by running the AC during the summer, you may need more watts to keep the water warm enough. 

FYI - Did you know many recommend Eheim Jager brand heaters?  At the risk of sounding like an infomercial pitchman, German engineering is cited as the reason for its durability and ease of use.  It is also surprisingly affordable making them a good value. So that might be one brand to consider if you are looking for a heater for your betta tank.  

Oh and another feature to look for in any aquarium heater is an auto shut off mentioned earlier.  That way should the water level get too low rather than explode, crack or overheat it is supposed to simply shut down.  Not foolproof.  But having that built in is better than not having it in my opinion. 

Question: Aside from the preferred choice of using a heater, what other ways are there to heat like say bowls. 

Not a fan of bowls. And this is one reason why.  They are hard to heat.  You can try some kind of heating mat, or a heating pad even.  Some keep several carefully spaced bowls, a betta in each, in a 20 gallon long tank heating the water in the tank which in turn will keep the water in the bowls warm enough.  You might want to have an air stone going crazy to keep the water circulating so all the bowls stay the same temp.  Just seems like a lot of work when moving up to a five gallon tank heated with heater, even if you added a divider, would be so much easier.  Less hassle too.

Question:  Any other ideas?

Don't forget to get a thermostat so you can see what's going on inside the tank.  It's an essential tool for anyone serious about betta care.  An easy to read one with a suction cup to keep it in place is only a few bucks.  Get the kind that you put inside the tank.  Those that you stick to the outside don't seem to be as reliable for some reason.  But having a thermostat can take the guesswork out of determining exactly how warm is warm for your veiltail.  Letting you know if you need to adjust the heater up or down or something. 

CONCLUSION:  Having the water for your betta fish at room temperature is likely not going to cut it.  You need to heat it some way or another.  Hopefully some of your more pressing questions involved with aquarium heaters have been resolved.

Wednesday, December 26, 2012

Growing Grindal Worms: Small Worms Big Benefits

OPENING:  It's sad but true.  Your stunning halfmoon male betta is getting bored with his daily pellet rations.  To him it's about as exciting as eating wall paper paste.  Not to mention that the sameness of it all is driving him mad.  Or at least making him mad and leaving him to wonder if it would kill you to offer a bit of variety to the same ole same ole diet day after day. 

Fact is some betta keepers are clueless about what to feed their fighting fish beyond pellets.  They're in the dark about their options.  Completely baffled as to how to tell good food options from the bad.  Unaware that easily raised live food options exist that have the potential to unleash a one fish feeding frenzy. Here's help.

Because one good alternative would be Grindal worms.  I know. You've likely never heard of them before.  Your betta probably hasn't either but in a flash he'll get the drift that the endless days of bland pellets are dead and gone. As he delights in sucking in all the wriggling tasty treats he can before you change your mind or something. 

This video shows how easy it is to culture them.  And don't worry I've taken notes for you which follow. So sit back, relax and take in the presentation.

Step One:  Accumulate items from your materials list:

  • Substrate or growing media aka potting soil
  • Butter bread aka Grindal worm food
  • Probiotic yogurt
  • Starter culture
  • Culturing Container any disposable plastic container (like these Glad containers)
  • Coffee Filter
  • Duct tape and Masking Tape
  • Blade Cutter
  • Spray Bottle with Aged Water

Step Two:  Cut an air duct in the lid of your culturing container.  Tape a piece of coffee filter somewhat bigger than the hole using the duct tape it to keep the worms in and pests out

Step Three: Add the potting soil to the container.

Step Four: Spray down the potting soil until it is wet but not sopping wet. 

Step Five:  Spread the yogurt on the bread - this is the worm food.  Yogurt being full of beneficial bacteria are eaten by the worms and then the bettas.  So the betta is in essence getting his probiotics if indirectly from the worms.  You can feed the worms other things too like better quality dog food, freeze dried krill, keeping in mind what the worms eat your fish will be eating too in essence. 

Step Six:  Add the starter culture on top of the bread.

Step Seven:  Note the start date on a piece of masking tape taped to the lid and snap it onto the container. Set it aside to let the worms do their thing - eat and multiply.  How fast things develop depend on the temperature and quality of food. 

Step Eight: For ease of harvesting you might cover the food with some kind of plastic.  You could use plexiglass, the lid from an old CD/DVD jewel case, things like that.

Step Nine: Now if all goes well, things will progress and the piece of plastic will start to look like this.


Once the worms are literally crawling up the sides it's time to commence feeding.  You'll need a harvest tool if you won't want to swoop them up by running your finger along the side of the container.  That might be a tooth pick, paint brush or Q-Tip.  Then simply swish the worms in the water taking care not to over feed because any worms left uneaten will tend to foul the water which can cause all sorts of unwanted problems. 

CONCLUSION:  There you go.  If your hungry male betta is tired of pellets morning, noon, and night Grindal worms might just be the change of pace he needs to get him excited about meal time again. Or a great answer for those looking to solve the problem of what else can betta fish eat besides pellets? 

Tuesday, December 25, 2012

Diagnosing and Treating a Sick Betta Fish

OPENING: What do a betta speckled with white spots, a betta having trouble swimming and a beta with no appetite all have in common?  

They are all likely sick bettas possibly on the verge of soon to be dead bettas! 

But you don't have to wait for the seemingly inevitable ride on the porcelain railroad that departs with a flush.  You can fight back.  You can learn to diagnose what ails them and bring them back to the active, healthy little fighting fish you know and love.  Just takes a bit of know-how and some TLC.

To help with that here's some ideas on what to do when you see your feisty crowntail male is not quite acting like his normal, energetic, playful self. 

Talking Symptoms of a Sick Betta

Treatment of bettas who have come down with something all starts with understanding the symptoms.  Truth is you can't treat the disease you can't diagnose. So when it comes to symptoms, you'll know your betta might be getting sick if you remember "AILING".
  • A - ALL covered with SPOTS
  • I - IF his belly is BLOATED or swollen
  • L - LOSS of FINNAGE as in eaten away
  • I - IF fins are CLAMPED SHUT
  • N - NO APPETITE
  • G - GROWTHS and sores on his body

Any of those signs and symptoms can spell trouble.  And suggest you need to investigate further to see if you can't figure out exactly what's AILING your pet.  See how helpful that little mental memory jogger can be?

Talking Sick Betta Treatment

Of course if you have a betta fish that is AILING in some way you need to respond or obviously he might be a floater before you know it.To help with that this video hits the high points of how to treat your sick veiltail betta fish.


The point already made about the role of proper diagnosis is reinforced early on.  Again, in order to treat your ailing fish, you need to properly diagnose what's wrong.  This is key and where many betta keepers go astray.  They start dumping in "stuff" in the hopes it will cure whatever ails their fish.  That's a mistake.  Possibly a big mistake.  Because as the old saying goes this could be a case where the cure is worse than the disease.  Especially if it's the wrong cure. 

Now the more common ailments are typically caused by a fungus, bacteria or some insidious parasite. 

The first type of common problems with a sick fish you'll see would fall into the camp of white cottony growths on their body, rotting or fins that look like they've been eaten away, or cloudy or protruding eyes.  These are fungus based.  Treatments such as Fungus Cure by API are suggested. 

Another key, not-to-be-missed point is made about using any product to treat your fighting fish.  That would be to carefully read and follow ALL the directions. They'll tell you how to use it and how much to use. This is not the time to matter-of-factly or willy nilly make your best guess.  It's your job to put your betta in the best possible position to recover.  Don't blow it. 

Changing water is a common thread with most sick fighting fish treatments.  It's no different here.  Because water is the source of the problems far too often.  

A third key, not-to-be-missed point is to remember is to get rid of any carbon you may have in your filter as all it will do is remove the medication from the water.  Rendering it useless. 

Okay then another problem afflicting bettas is columnaris.  You'll know this because there looks to be something slime-like covering the fish's entire body.  This is a bacterial problem and there are anti bacterial treatments for that.  Again water changes are part of the prescription.

Here's an admittedly less than great video of what columnaris looks like. 



The final all too common ailment mentioned is ich.  This one kinda looks like someone has sprinkled salt on your betta.  Again remedies are suggested.  NOTE:  Ich does require a longer treatment period to insure you are treating all three stages involved in the life cycle of this parasite.  Fail to do so and it will never go away.  But your fish likely will.  Cold water is often the culprit here.  So raising the temps is also felt to be helpful when treating ICH. 

To sum this up

  • Read and follow ALL direction of any medications you decide to use
  • Change water frequently
  • Remove the activated carbon in your filter

Talking Care of a Sick Betta Fish At the First Signs of Illness

Remember that a healthy betta is usually a hungry betta.  They instinctively seek out food all the time because in the wild you never know where your next meal is going to come from.  So if your guy suddenly shows a lack of interest in eating that's a bad sign. 

Then too bettas are usually quite active.  Lethargy or inactivity suggest something is amiss

If you notice either lack of appetite or sudden laziness start with the symptoms in AILING to see if anything wrong jumps out at you.  Then go from there. 

Sometimes it's nothing more than poor water quality that putting your guy off his feed.  Poor water is a big beta fish care NO NO!  One that is easily avoided.  Remember he is adding ammonia to his water all the time.  The water may be crystal clear yet laced with this deadly chemical.  The best way to monitor this is with a test kit.  Any level above zero is a cause for concern and call for immediate water changes. 

CONCLUSION:  When it comes to diseases of the betta splendens we've barely scratched the surface here.  Siamese fighting fish are prone to many health problems.  Most are caused by the fish living in water that leaves a bit to be desired.  But at least now, with the help of AILING, you might be in a better position to respond at the first sign your betta could be sick.


Monday, December 24, 2012

The Case For Prepping Replacement Water

OPENING:  Three Big Lies: The King is alive somewhere in Memphis, Big Foot is real, and everyone handles water replacement for their betta fish the same.

We all know water changes are critical to success with bettas.  No doubt.  But there is little agreement on how one goes about prepping the water to use as replacement - if you prepare it at all.

Naturally some of this depends on the quality of water from the tap.  Yet it's hard to account for other variations in approach other than personal preference.  Wait! What? So does that mean it's time to get out your magic lamps and chants?  No.  Just appreciate that there is no one right way and go from there.

So with the understanding there is NO perfect way to about this, let's quickly look at different ways to approach replacement water.  With the usual choices being to add a water conditioner or just to let it sit for like 24 hours.  Additional considerations may be some sort of additives.  (Oh and the names have been changed to protect the innocent.)

Heather uses water that has been reverse osmosis filtered.  But knowing the RO strips out beneficial metals, trace elements and the like she uses FreshTrace by Seachem to condition it.  Given how she adds back the good stuff taken out she feels since it's been filtered it is better than normal tap water.

Jaime takes water straight from the tap and once it has reached room temp he does his thing.  His thinking is he's only changing out maybe 20% of the water so any chlorine won't matter much if at all.  Which is one way to look at it. The beneficial bacteria might not appreciate it however.  Not so sure the fish do either.

Emerson aerates his new water for 24 hours and preheats it as well.  He uses Atison Betta Spa - an almond leaf based product.  It will also bind ammonia and adds calcium. That's a pretty popular additive actually.

Some prefer to use AquaSafe by Tetra as their dechlorinator and conditioner.  Fans feel it works great as a remover of chlorine, chloramine and metals from tap water.

Carl uses aged tap water supplemented by NutraFin Betta Plus water conditioner.  Similar to Atison Betta Spa it conditions the water and add a bit of almond leaf extract.  He also adds a bit of aquarium salt plus changes out his ketapang leaves when he does the water change.

Angela uses aged (24 hours),  heated water to which she has added API Stress Coat.  She too replaces her IAL when she does her weekly water change.

Whatever your approach know this.  Distilled water is out.  That's right, you never want to use straight distilled water. Bottled water is okay but why spend the money if you don't have to, know what I mean?  Unless the water from the tap is super hard or something it should be okay for the most part.

CONCLUSION.  Admittedly this isn't earth shaking stuff.  But it was somewhat surprising. And maybe I mentioned too many products here. As you can see however there are many options and some go all out with stuff they add.  Others not so much.  But all do the water change thing with great regularity.  So should you. At least for the betta fighting fish you want to enjoy a long lifespan and look good living it. 

Sunday, December 23, 2012

Tell Me, What Do Betta Fish Eat?

OPENING: For some there are but two ways to feed their betta fish.  Give them what they think they want or give them what you think they need.  Yet either approach can leave health sucking holes in their diet.  So perhaps there's middle ground.  Or what you might call a better way to look at your perfectly imperfect feeding choices. 

The good news is grasping what it takes to supply your betta with what it needs to keep swimming for years and years is getting easier to do.  All the more if you have a quick guide that attempts to answer the "Tell me, what do betta fish eat" question thoroughly, if somewhat briefly, and quite clearly.  As luck would have it you'll find such a guide here.  Its purpose is to make it easy to shop the various fish food aisles of the pet shop.  (Okay sections would be more like it but work with me here.)  Wisely picking the best for your little fighting fish who wants you to believe they've got a big appetite.  So pick out your shopping cart and let's get shopping. 

From the Meat Aisle

Were you to bother to ask any self-respecting male betta on the prowl for something tasty "Just what do betta fish like to eat besides fish food?" their eyes would light up as if reliving the memory of their favorite meal.  Most likely it would have involved something that moved.  You know was alive?  Something that offered them a bit of a challenge and the thrill of the hunt and all that? 

There would basically be two categories here: Worms and non-worms. 

First for the worms.  Now you don't want to think earth worms - although if you bothered to cleanse them and them chop them fine enough they would work.  Still have you seen the size of your betta's mouth?  Given it is so small you probably want to think more along the lines of of grindal worms or white worms perhaps.  Both of which can be cultured at home cheaply with relative ease from a starter culture. 

Then listed among the non-worms would be things like daphnia, mosquito larvae, and gut loaded adult brine shrimp since any brine shrimp more than a day old isn't really all that nutritious.  You can change that by gut loading although we won't get into the how to do that here.  Again you can fairly easily culture any of these.  I'd say mosquito larvae would be the easiest of the three however - in season.  And bettas will scarf them up with reckless abandon. 

There is nothing fancy involved with feeding these live foods.  Just harvest a finger full in the case of the worms or net some of the non-worms, rinse and release.  No fish I know will turn up their nose to any of these living delicacies.

From the Frozen Food Aisle

There's no doubt that tasty treats await in the frozen food aisle.  Just short of live foods on the hit parade in terms of popularity, frozen grub comes in a wide assortment.  You'll find frozen brine shrimp, bloodworms - always a fan favorite, daphnia perhaps, and tubifex worms.  Although you'd want to stick with a name brand known for using parasite free tubifex sources.  Knowing as you do that these guys typically grow in less than sanitary conditions. 

Note too that I used the words "treats" for a reason.  Most of the choices are not exactly brimming with nutritional value capable of building strong bodies 12 ways.  Yet I know of no betta who wouldn't love to chow down on blood worms all day long.  Problem is so much protein can lead to digestive problems.  So you'll want to go easy.  Thaw some every now and again.  Just not too often no matter how much you see your betta with the freezer door open silhouetted by the light inside. 

From the Freeze Dried  Aisle

Then you can't beat freeze dried foods for convenience either.  Again there's a wide assortment to consider here too.  Typically blood worms, Mysis shrimp, tubifex worms, and brine shrimp.  Lots to choose from. 

Alas, not much of a fan of freeze dried.  For one simple reason.  Unless you bother to thoroughly, and let me emphasize thoroughly, presoak them really well, you are risking bloating and constipation problems for your bettas.   As freeze dried food not presoaked properly can suck up liquid in their guts and expand like crazy.  But not everyone thinks the way I do.  Understanding this I presented it, if briefly, as another somewhat viable option to choose from.

From the Prepared Foods Aisle

Lots of options here to choose from here.  Still commercially prepared foods come in two basic forms:  flakes and pellets.  And no discussion about your feeding options would be complete without at least contemplating, even briefly, the differences between the two.

Flakes vs. Pellets:  Sure flakes have been a popular option for feeding tropical fish for decades. Maybe the people's choice even although often not your betta's first choice.  Yet there's a compelling case to be made for pellets.  For one they are more densely packed with nutrients.  They tend to retain their nutritional values longer in water.  You see flakes, being paper thin, tend to absorb water quickly and as a result leach out any water soluble vitamins in next to no time.  Like in less than a minute no time.  And most commercial fish raising operations feed pellets for a reason.  They produce results.

Then there's the issue of swelling and again, pellets win hands down.  Flakes too can swell up in your bettafish's stomach.  That makes pellets less likely to cause bloating problems.  Which accounts for why pellets should be your prepared food of choice. 

Then the question becomes which brand should you feed and how can you tell the best from the rest?   You can tell the best by reading the label.  The labels of the blue ribbon winners will lead off with high quality, and preferably marine based proteins.  While short changing grain based ingredients like wheat middlings, soybean meal and the like are well down the list.  The rest, aka losers will reverse that order because it's cheaper to produce food full of filler.  For many in bettadom the choice of pellets  comes down to New Life Spectrum Betta Formula vs Attisons Betta Pro.  I'm not going to try to influence that decision one way or the other.

Feed according to fish size.  A couple of pellets twice a day should suffice.  Three if you've got a bigger betta's hunger to satisfy. 

Food from the Produce Aisle 

Awwwk.  And you thought bettas were strictly meat eaters.  Okay.  You got me.   But there's a reason to consider mixing in a blanched pea into their diet once a week.  Regularity.  They will help your betta's digestive system to keep humming right along.  Giving them the help they need in the morning - if you know what I mean. 

And you're right. Bettas are carnivores. But nothing like a little fiber to insure they are able to enjoy their mosquito larvae chase or chewing their favorite pellets without fears of getting all stopped up and bloated.  Not that they worry much about such things to begin with.  Which is why you should. And why you might want to read about curing betta fish constipation, just in case. 

From the Baby Food Aisle

Good things do come in small packages.  Once your fry have reached the free swimming stage, around day two, they can eat any infusoria found in their  tank.  Then from day five or six and beyond you'll want to feed freshly hatched baby brine shrimp (BBS).  Which your fry should be big enough to chase down and get into their mouth after about a week.  Prior to that you want to fill in with banana worms.  Or micro worms.  Or vinegar eels.  In other words, baby fish sized bits that can get them off to a fast start.  Eels might be the winner of the Breeder's Choice Award as they will tend to stay near the surface and can live in the water column for up to 24 hours.  That means the snack bar is open 24/7 making it easier on you rather than trying to feed them every two or three hours. 

Now for the next five or six weeks focus on feeding them freshly hatched BBS, mixing in the worms and eels for variety.  But the BBS with yolk sac attached will be more nutritious so should be emphasized on the fry menu. 

From the Specialty Food Aisle

Here you would be picking up some conditioning food.  Important since one part of conditioning the breeding pair is to feed them all primo protein laden food all the time.  So they get a steady diet of frozen blood worms, frozen Mysis shrimp, live baby guppies, live mosquito larvae.  You want to prep the for the rigors of breeding.  To do so you need to fatten them up just a bit for up to two weeks ahead of their big day.  Which includes bumping them up from feeding two times a day to three. 

That said, for normal feedings don't lose sight of the fact that bettas are relatively little fish.  And so the tendency is to over feed.  While they will try to convince you they prefer heaping helpings, really they don't.  Over feeding is not good for the fish, their water, or for helping them lead long healthy lives.

CONCLUSION:  So as you can see there is no one-size-fits-all answer for the question "What do betta fish like to eat?"  Perhaps the best answer might be a variety of highly nutritional, easily digestible choices.  Making both variety and nutritional are important.  Yet the real key may be variety.  Sure pellets may provide all your crowntail betta male needs.  But like someone famous once said, "Bettas cannot live on pellets alone!" Or at least they shouldn't have to.  Bon appetit.

Saturday, December 22, 2012

Is This Silent Killer Lurking In Your Betta Tank?

They're often found in aquariums and fish bowls all across this country. 

What's "they"?

Well, they refers to three chemicals that you should be familiar with if you hope to succeed in keeping betta fish healthy.  Two of them you want to bid farewell to as soon as you can even though one typically one follows the other.  The third you want to welcome. Maybe not a warm welcome, mind you, but it is at least the least obnoxious of the three. 

The three chemicals we're talking about are ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.  Usually when you set up a tank, they will follow each other in succession over the first 60 days in the water. Each will spike and fall in turn as the beneficial bacteria in your tank develop in sufficient numbers to keep them in check. 

You may see this referred to sometimes as new tank syndrome. Or the nitrogen cycle.

Of those, we're going to focus on ammonia for now since spikes of that in your betta tank can be killers.  Not that nitrites are all that much better but one thing at a time. 

So the water looks good and all.  It's clear.  Clean. But it's what you can't see that counts.  And how it makes your guy react that counts all the more.  At high enough levels ammonia can be fatal.  At any level it can be stressful.  Which isn't exactly good for when it comes to enjoying a long beta fish life span, now is it?

For this reason you really, really, really, need to control the ammonia levels in your tank.  Like I just said, most anything above zero PPM will be stressful for your fish.  They will think of little more than surviving while your tank runs through the nitrogen cycle. Which can take up to 6-8 weeks.  Best you can do is do frequent 10-15% water changes to keep things as close to tolerable as possible.  Especially in a new tank. 

You see, any new tank set up is going to see a spike in ammonia levels.  Guaranteed.  That's because there are no good bugs to consume it and convert it into nitrites.  This can be a bad situation for your fish.  (Not that high nitrites are a day in the park either but that's another story.) Fish waste and uneaten food are what "cause" it.  They are the source.  And there is really little you can do to fix it. 

Unchecked it can even cause burns on your fish.  And imagine how that must feel! 

You can and do want to monitor ammonia levels using a quality water testing kit.  Any readings above ZERO for ammonia and ZERO for nitrites are poisonous to your fish.  (I know I keep repeating it, but I want to make sure it sinks in.)

Some will plant their new tank. This can help some because living plants will use ammonia as plant food.  But the only reliable way to keep levels lower is by water changes. 

Then there's another idea.  You see some will tell you that you can instantly cycle a tank using the methods suggested in this video:

Basically all you are doing is taking filter material from an existing tank that has been doing well for a couple of months and is disease free, and inserting that into your filter for the new tank. Leave it in the new tank for up to a week.  The theory being it will flood the water with beneficial bacteria that will colonize the tank in next to no time.  Feasting on the ammonia and nitrites that result.  Or...instant cycling.

Not sure it quite works INSTANTLY.  But it can't hurt and may just help move things along the road towards a cycled tank quite nicely, thank-you-very-much.  Meaning your betta will have to deal with the ups and downs of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates for a much shorter period of time.  If at all.  And if you've learned nothing else you know that ammonia and nitrites are not good for your fish.



Friday, December 21, 2012

How to Properly Acclimate Your New Betta Fish

OPENING: There's a simple reason why you need to acclimate your new betta to his new tank.  The water parameters are different.  The pH may be different. The nitrates level may be as well.  Plus the temperature he's at in the bag is quite unlikely to be the same as your tank. Not to mention what he was used to in his previous digs.

Which is why saying "Off you go!" and just dumping him in is NEVER a good idea. 

You want to slowly let him get used to things at least a little bit before freeing him to explore.  This is called acclimating.  Failure to do this can be very stressful.  It can shock your fish.  Worst case it can die.  Not a good start.  So always, always. always, make an effort to acclimate your striking male betta fish to his new surroundings. 

Okay so much for the why.  You need the how.  And even though this video doesn't feature betta fish, you can still start to get a sense of how to do this by watching it.


Let's quickly hit the highlights of how to acclimate your new betta to his new home.

Sometimes turning off the light to the tank can be calming for the new fish.  Good idea. 

Usually your fish will come in a bag.  You'll want to float the bag for at least 10-15 minutes to let the temperature in the bag come up to the temp in the tank. 

Next you want to gradually add tank water to the bag.  You can either spoon this in, use a cup, or lower a side of the bag to allow some to sneak in.  You want to add new tank water every 10 to 15 minutes for about an hour.  This way you are gradually increasing the amount of tank water in the bag.  Helping your fish to slowly adjust over time. 

Best practice would be to catch and release rather than dumping the contents fish and all.  If you can use your hand rather than a net.  Again this is a less stressful.  The trick is to do this as quick as you possibly can.  Nothing worse than chasing your fish around the bag.  You can also injure your fighting fish sometimes during the chase. 

Drip acclimation is another way to go.  But not a method I would use with bettas.  Seems to me to be a bit more stressful.  Bag.  To bucket.  To tank?  Not to mention all the water it takes to make that happen.

And since you're releasing your betta into a tank by himself I tend not to feed until the next day.  Don't worry.  He won't starve.  But he will have time to settle in and then can start to adjust to the grub you feed. 

CONCLUSION:  So that's acclimating in a nutshell. Not that tricky but certainly essential.


Thursday, December 20, 2012

Betta Breeding in Two Minutes or Less

OPENING: Seems everyone at one time or another fancies themselves to be a betta breeder.  We won't get into whether or not that's a good idea or not.  Fact is the lure can be overwhelming.  So rather than go into the process blind it might be helpful to have an idea of what you are getting yourself into.  The sooner the better too.

To be honest, this video presents what you might call the Readers Digest Condensed version of betta breeding.  Or the Cliff Notes version if you prefer.  Taking a 15 or so step process that plays out over a day or two or three and condensing it into 120 seconds.  Glossing over a lot of the details in the process.


So no, you won't be up to speed on all that's involved in breeding bettas after watching this oversimplification of the what's involved. Because to do it right you've got to
  1. pick the right breeding stock,
  2. start the microworm cultures,
  3. set up the breeding tank,
  4. condition the male and female bettas,
  5. move the male to the breeding tank,
  6. watch to see if he's in a bubble next blowing mood,
  7. safely introduce the female, in sight but out of reach
  8. judge that the time is right to release the female by their reaction to each other,
  9. observe the courtship ritual to make sure it isn't putting the female at too much risk,
  10. observe the actual mating and egg producing,
  11. get the female out,
  12. let the male hang around to tend the eggs for a day or two more,
  13. then remove him.
So that if you get it ALL right this is where you should be a day or so after the main event. Baby betta splendens.



CONCLUSION:  Those little bits you see hanging around the bubble nest are day old fry.  The newest of the new.  Soon it will be up to you to make sure you don't lose 90% of them due to neglect or not knowing what to do.

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Better Betta Keeping Through Chemistry?

OPENING:  Shortcuts!  Who doesn’t like shortcuts?  It’s why pills are preferred to exercising and eating better.  You get the benefits without the pain.  Or you might say the gain without pain. 

Similar thing with the water quality of your betta tank.  Sure you can bother to cycle your tank.  But most of the time we’re in a hurry and only find out once our betta is in the water that things are not going well.  Ammonia levels have spiked.  Which all but assures you that a nitrite spike is on the horizon.  Not the kind of coming attractions your halfmoon male will find all that appealing I can assure you. 

But there may be help on the horizon for that too.  You see, the fish keeping industry also knows that problems with your betta tank’s water can come out of nowhere.  Or not.  And they know too you want a quick and easy fix.  So as this video shows, they’ve come up with products that can help.




One such would be a product called AmQuel Plus. Billed as a water conditioner it can help keep things tolerable for the occupant of your tank.  It works to make ammonia and nitrites nontoxic to your fish.  Let me hasten to add that it doesn’t remove them, just makes them nontoxic through the magic that is chemistry.  The problem is when you see this working it may make you less inclined to do the water changes you know in your heart of hearts you should be making.  Please don’t let that happen, okay?

Stress coat is the other product profiled.  It gives their slime coat a bit of a boost. 

Finally there’s aquarium salt.  It can help cure and ward off health problems better than Obamacare.  Just know this.  Some in bettadom swear by it.  Others swear you don’t need it.  Both sides can produce convincing evidence to support their position. Leaving it up to you to decide which camp you fall into. 

If you opt to use it you might keep the dosage to no more than a quarter to a half teaspoon per gallon.  And while we’re revealing trade secrets a lower cost alternative might be Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt. 

The Problem with Amquel?

Before we go there’s a problem with products like Amquel. It may throw off the readings your test kit gives for ammonia levels.  Creating a false sense of security or panic when no such thing exists.  Just something to be aware of I’d say.

Okay, okay I can’t leave you hanging like that.  Just to clarify, you need an ammonia kit that is salicylate-based NOT Nessler-reagent based.  Reason being, and to keep things simple this isn’t chemistry class after all, the reagent used in kits relying on the Nessler method will react with the Amquel and produce a massive false positive.  What you need is one that is Salicylate based.  If you insist, click here and you can read the ins and outs of ammonia test kits until your eyes glaze over.  So go ahead knock yourself out.  (Oh and there's nothing necessarily special about that page.  Just thought it was helpful is all.  You can probably find others that are better if you look hard enough. )

Anyway, long story short you’ll need to get the appropriately named "Amquel Test Kit" if you want to measure ammonia levels properly when using Amquel in your tank.  Or you can use the one put out by Seachem.   It too will work correctly with ammonia neutralizing products like Amquel.  Just not as fast as others might. 

Anyway, some prefer to team Amquel Plus up with NovAqua because that’s how they were designed to be used.  In tandem.  Together they will tackle chlorine, chloramines and ammonia, with the  NovAqua also providing a bit of slime coat protection. 

One site likened NovAqua as a conditioner with benefits.  Nice.  In other words it works to make tap water safe for your fish by removing the chlorine. Plus it gives their slime coats a boost. 

So you use the Amquel Plus to neutralize the ammonia.  And the NovAqua to condition the water. 

CONCLUSION:  You should have picked up something to use in a pinch if the water parameters get out of whack in betta fish tank.  But it should not be considered an alternate to regular water changes.  But more just a way to help get your fish over the hump and to keep things from getting seriously out of hand should the need arise.  Okay?


Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Beginner's Brine Shrimp Hatchery Tutorial

OPENING:  Brine shrimp are a great betta fry food.  Some adults like to weigh into a cloud of them inhaling them by the mouthful too.  Hatching them isn’t that tough either. The process is clearly laid out for you in this video.

As you can see, this helpful video offers some great tips.
  • It starts off with a list of items you’ll need which among other things will include a two liter pop bottle, air pump, airline, rigid airline, brine shrimp eggs and premix.
  • If you aren’t using aged water, add a dechlorinator.
  • If you have a shrimp and salt premix you’ll want to add a tablespoon of that to your two liter bottle.
  • Add one liter of water to the bottle.
  • Place the rigid airline into the water and unleash the bubbles. These will keep the eggs in motion and they should hatch in 24-36 hours depending on the temperature. 78-80 F is ideal. Lower just means the eggs will take longer to hatch.
  • When the shrimp hatch the water will look bright orange. Now you just use your rigid tubing and airline as a suction to draw the shrimp out of the hatchery. Then get the air line pumping the air again to keep the shrimp alive and in motion until the next feeding time.
There are many slight variations to this method.  For example some use two pop bottles, cutting one in half and using it as a base. They invert the other and sticking it in that base so that the eggs, when they fall, are funneled into an airstone which keeps them suspended.

Brine Shrimp Hatching FAQ

QUESTION: I’m new to this. Why should I feed my fry BBS?
A: They are a nearly perfect food when freshly hatched. Reason being their yolk sac offers a decent amount of protein and fat to nourish the babies.

QUESTION: What can I do to get a great hatch?
A: Buy eggs rated to give you a 90% hatch. They’ll cost a bit more but they’re worth it because they’ll hatch out more artemia. 

QUESTION: Anything else to improve the hatch rate?
A: Make sure you’ve got sufficient aeration. Eggs that aren’t kept moving are more apt not to hatch.

QUESTION: What should I do with the excess from a hatch to save them for another time?
A: Stick the brine shrimp in an ice cube tray and freeze them

QUESTION: How long will these guys live in the my hatcher?
A: They can go for several days if you keep the aeration going. They will live off their egg yolk initially. And if you don’t aerate them well, they may suffocate.

QUESTION: How can I increase the temperature of the hatchery to get them to come out faster?
A: One way would be to keep a light on them. The heat from the bulb will heat them up. Or you could keep your hatching set up in a heated aquarium.

QUESTION: Do I have to use premix?
A: No. It’s just that the premixed eggs/salt is somewhat more convenient.  Alternately you can use aquarium salt (not iodized table salt), baking soda and shrimp eggs. You’ll need a pinch of baking soda, add one tablespoon of salt for every liter of water, and a quarter or half a teaspoon of brine shrimp eggs. Fill your pop bottle most of the way up and add the salt, baking soda and shrimp eggs.

QUESTION: Which reminds me, how many shrimp in quarter of a teaspoon?
A: That’s about 180,000 shrimp.

QUESTION: What if I want to feed my BBS to grow them out? 
A: You can try things like phytoplankton, Liquidfry, yeast, soybean powder and egg yolk.  Just take care not to overfeed. In other words frequent smaller feedings are better than one huge feed.  It is very easy to foul their water. 

CONCLUSION:  This post reveals just enough to make you dangerous.  Do a bit more research however and in no time you'll have a hatchery full of BBS to feed your baby bettas. 


Monday, December 17, 2012

Treating Dropsy in Betta Fish

OPENING: Bettas with dropsy are a sad sight as this video clearly shows.



See how swollen this poor guy is?  Notice his scales are sticking out like what is commonly referred to as a pinecone?  Classic symptoms.  Painting a perfect picture of what a beta with dropsy looks like.  As this eHow article points out, it's more or less the result of a bacterial infection.

Now most betta keepers would agree with this following video that warns that dropsy is very hard to treat successfully.  That doesn't mean you shouldn't try.  But it does mean you should go into the treatment routine knowing ahead of time that the odds are against your fish. 



That said this video outlines a five step treatment process step by step. 

Usually with a betta it will be isolated already.  You want this because the antibiotic medications recommend aren't recommended for general consumption. 

At the same time you are told to use Epsom salt to help relieve the excess fluid buildup. 

The point about no activated charcoal should not be overlooked.  It will remove the medication from the water making it less likely you will succeed.  So if you've got such a filter operational, remove the carbon before starting treatment.  You can always add is later to help remove the medications from the water.  That and water changes should accomplish that. 

CONCLUSION: This helpful vid gives you a good overview of what you are up against should your fish be unlucky enough to come down with a case of dropsy.  It does a good job of describing the disease and what you can try to do to beat it. 

Sunday, December 16, 2012

To Cycle Or Not to Cycle, Is That The Question?

Some say that happiness is what happens when keeping bettas is a cycled tank.  Life is easier for you. Life is better for the bettas.  Which I'd tend to agree with. 

Now if you thoroughly understand tank cycling raise your hand.   Okay a few hands went up.

Otherwise for the rest would it be safe to say you don't know what a cycled tank is?  Or that you don't know why you should know?  If that's true, then this quick heads up should be an eye opener to the possibilities.


If you didn't sleep walk through this video here's what you should have learned.
  • The phrase "cycling a fish tank" is about your filter as much as anything else? It also involves the nitrogen cycle and it's referred to as a cycle for a reason. Here's why.
  • Your fish are ammonia producers. The amount produced depends on the type and number of fish.
  • When doing cycling with fish you start with a few so called hardy fish. These would be fish that can cope with spiking ammonia levels without dying basically. The idea is to build up the beneficial bacteria that break down the harmful ammonia compounds. First it is broken down into nitrites. And finally nitrates. The latter is for the most part benign in limited doses.
  • Ammonia is most harmful. Nitrites less so. Nitrates again pretty much not so harmful.
  • Doing the cycling with fish is a way to gradually introduce more fish over time to give the bacteria in the tank time to build up to handle the ammonia load. This is likely not a good thing to do with a prized bettta fish however.
  • To monitor this cycle you'll need an ammonia test kit. It will pretty much last forever so get a good one like something from API. (Don't get the strips. They aren't nearly accurate enough.) You can see how simple it is. A vial of tank water. A few drops of reactant. Wait a bit. And BOOM you know your ammonia levels.
  • Strips are said to be okay for measuring nitrites and nitrates. I tend to disagree. Again a single kit from API can do it all. But let's say that's up to you.
  • The typical nitrogen cycle your tank will go through is pretty predictable.
    Initially you are going to have an ammonia spike. This is stressful for the fish. Very stressful. In a way it's like living in a smoke filled room. It might not kill you, but breathing in that smoke 24/7 isn't doing you any good either.
    The good news, if there is good news, is that the ammonia is food for the good bugs. So they too will multiply like crazy. This will eventually crash the ammonia spike but replace it with a nitrite spike because that's what the bacteria break ammonia down into. Better but still not good. 
    Meanwhile your fish is trying to cope with these gyrating water parameters and still be styling while doing so. Also not so good.
    More bacteria develop which will eventually take care of the nitrites. This leads to a jump in nitrates. But this is manageable by regular water changes. Which is why the routine is to change out say 80% of the water once the nitrates spike to get that level down. And from there you are good doing 25% changes every week to 10 days or so. 
  • But you can also see how 100% water changes are hard on your betta. Because every time you're flushing any good bacteria that have developed down the drain. So that ammonia levels spike, the bacteria catch up, nitrite levels spike, bacteria catch up, nitrate levels spike, BOOM you come along and do a 100% water change somewhere along the way and start the process all over again. Leaving the fish to try to adjust, and adjust and adjust.
  • With one betta it's unlikely you can bring in aged filter media. But might be doable if you have a number of these guys in different tanks.
Now I'm not going to tell you that you can't keep bettas in an uncycled set up .  You can. It just makes caring for your betta fish that much easier.   But if you have a tank and you do bother to cycle it, it can often expand the life span of your betta, sometimes dramatically. Because the fish isn't constantly trying to deal with unhealthy spikes in ammonia and nitrite levels that can result from doing 100% water changes. 

Okay so if this whole cycling business is as clear as mud sometimes it helps to get your brain around a concept if you see it explained a second time from a slightly different perspective.  So here's a second pretty decent video.



The nice thing about this one is you get to see a nifty image of the nitrogen cycle from fish to nitrates.  That to me helps make the whole process crystal clear.  Hopefully you'll feel that way too. 

Even better there's a second image, well a chart actually, that shows how the three compounds, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates spike and then crash over time.  Which is pretty darn helpful too. 

And pay attention to the approximate number of days it takes to make each part of the cycle happen.  Which only reinforces the point made that if you are doing a 100% water change once a month, your betta fish is likely under constant stress. 

Still I can't say for sure that if you have a cycled tank you are going to significantly expand the life span of your betta fish.  Sure having them in a tank rather than a bowl will help.  And not subjecting them constantly to ammonia spikes that accompany 100% water changes will help too.  But there are other pitfalls that can shorten their life expectancy. Some of which are beyond your control even.

So to cycle or not to cycle is that the question really isn't the question.  Because for the health of your fish you do want to cycle your tank.  Your betta will be happier.  And you'll be happier.  With that let's end this cycling story.

Friday, November 30, 2012

In the Presence of Dragons

INTRODUCTION:  Breeders have brought an exciting new look to a betta tank near you.  A so called dragon betta fish is an all original color/scale type.  Pretty nifty, huh?

Now it's a lot easier to see what it is than explain what it is.  So if you take a closer look at the half moon plakat male in this video you can't help but notice what really thick scales it appears to have. 


If you miss or can't quite see what I'm talking about, pause the video when the fish's side is full to the camera and you'll easily see the effect on the scales that truly makes this a dragon.  You'll notice both their thick, distinctive appearance as well as the metallic like glint.  Almost resembles armor, no?  Should also bring to mind dragons of lore.  And may be the closest you get to the real thing.  Who knew? 

Dragon Betta Defined:  You'll know one when you see one.  To be one the body of the fish typically has to flash remarkable metallic iridescence.  One that almost could be described as having a silvery look to it.  Which when combined with darker finnage produces a contrasting yet dazzling display that almost glows.  Each scale seems to be almost highlighted to stand out.  Even better, anymore you can find them in a vast and growing array of colors. 

I personally feel the most stunning are of the thicker Plakat body types.  But here again the look is spreading to other body types too.  If you're curious as to the origins of the color type, this article may be the one to read

CONCLUSION:  So have you been overcome by "dragon fever"?  Some find that when in the presence of dragons, like this one,

 

it's hard not to be smitten.

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Lazy Breeders Guide to Betta Fry Feeding

INTRODUCTION:  Okay so the time to start to wonder what you're going to feed your betta fry is not when you see their tiny tails hanging with the bubbles in the nest.  The time to line up what you're going to feed your fry is before you even start conditioning their parents.  Anything less is irresponsible.  Because without the proper diet 85-90% of your spawn could be gone in three weeks or less from starvation. And how fair is that?

And don't think you've got things covered with some kind of fine dry food.  Won't work.  That's right ain't a gonna happen.  At least not in the fry's lifetime, short at that may be.  And it's really sad to think you're measuring their miserable bettafish lifespan in a few short weeks and finding it's over before you even know what you've got.

Still it happens. That's because for many, fry feeding's a huge hurdle to overcome if they're going to successfully breed betta fish.  (Not that I'd advise doing so but it seems many have their hearts set on trying so why fight it?)  Otherwise you're just another wannbe who is doomed to failure after failure no matter how well things go in the breeding tank.  Left to wonder why did they die this time, instead of getting to the exciting point of seeing some amazing colors and fins develop right before your very eyes.

Okay so that's the problem.  The solution?  You need to think live and you need to think micro-sized.  Because those you are trying to feed are surprisingly teeny tiny in size. With teeny tiny mouths to match.  But they possess a supersized appetite that needs to be satisfied and on a regular basis. 

Naturally you can feed a number of things to those eyes and tails that are potentially an attitude in waiting.  Just has to be downsized to their level. 

And you have to be able to grow it yourself.  Because you're unlikely to find the fry grub you need at any of the big box pet stores.  Or your local pet store for that matter. 

Admittedly some into betta breeding favor feeding infusoria.  And yes these microorganisms meet the small enough test.  That's for sure.  But they can fail the water quality test in a big way by adding to spiking ammonia levels.  And ammonia is super deadly to fragile fry.  Can wipe them out faster than you can spell ICH.  (Although let me hasten to add it's not ICH they got.)  It's a toxic brew that's trying to pass for good water that poisons them indiscriminately seemingly without cause.  Leaving the betta keeper to wonder what happened to all the fry? 

For much the same reason I'm not big on egg yolk even though some are.  Unless you are extremely careful, and I mean to say extremely, the cloud of protein your egg yolk produces can rot and this too can easily pollute the water badly.  Leaving your fry to cry foul.  As in foul, nasty, deadly water.

Okay so if those two don't make the cut what does?  Initially you're better off with microworms and note that their name gives you a hint as to their size.  And then a few weeks later adding baby brine shrimp (BBS) to the list.  Sure it's hard to get your head around how something so small, or BBS, can be too big for your newborn bettas.  But they are. 

FACT: Microworms are bigger than banana worms but smaller than either Grindal or white worms.  Just like in the Three Bears, they are sized just right for newly free swimming fry.  

Okay so the nematodes also known as microworms are it.  (Which if you notice are about as small as the performer formerly known as Prince!  Kidding!) As this video shows all you basically need is a starter culture and a growing media and your fry feeding problems are pretty much over.  Which is why this is the lazy way to feed your fish, more or less. 




Here's how this approach to culturing microworms works.

Cook up some oatmeal and let it cool to room temp.  This would be your growing media and a bit too soupy is probably better than being too dry.  How much you ladle into each of your plastic containers isn't vitally important to success.  Keeping in mind the worms, as they are, live on the surface not in the depths.  So too thick and you're just wasting perfectly good oatmeal.  On top of the oatmeal sprinkle a dusting of cream of wheat.  To this you add a bit of starter from an existing microworm culture.  (And do pay attention to the bit about using a clean spoon, or in this case chopsticks, so you don't cross contaminate your cultures.)  To finish things off, this recipes calls for a sprinkling of brewer's yeast.  Less is more with the yeast.  Seal your new worm colonies with a lid that has a few air holes poked into it.  And you're good.  If things go right you'll soon have worms crawling up the sides of your containers ready to be harvested and fed.  As the video shows collect them on your finger, drop them into water, suck them up with an eyedropper and add them to the tank housing your hungry fry. And you probably want to have a number of containers of these guys going at the same time so you have enough for a nonstop harvest.

CONCLUSION:  Here's the deal.  You do not want to wait until you have hungry fry depending on you for food before starting this process.  Because you need starter culture to pull it off.  Without that you're sunk.  Sure you may find someone at your local aquarium club or whatever who has a culture available. Or you can pick some up off eBay for less than five bucks.  And once you've got that you can produce these miniature worms FOREVER.  But if you have to track starter culture down your spawn may well be dead before you are in a position to feed them properly.  This is why the responsible thing to do is plan ahead.  And have your wriggling microworm cultures going strong before you have fry that need to be fed.

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Flashy Males Or Plain-Clothed Females

INTRODUCTION: Did you know that the lovely veiltailed bettas being sold in pet stores are more likely to be males rather than females?  Really?  What gives?  And no it's not some sexist conspiracy on the part of the retailers, but more a bowing to the law of supply and demand. Because survey says more people prefer keeping flashy male bettas than their less colorful female counterparts.

Why is that?  Good question.  And no, it has nothing to do with their respective prospective life span which can run to two, three years or longer with luck. Nor does it have a lot to do with demeanor although some males can be real characters.  Rather it's all about marketing, and males just rate better in that department on a scale of 1-10.  Guess you could say Technicolor wins out over dishwater gray. 

So I also guess you chalk this retail tendency up to the fact the male of the species are much more colorful than the females  are. The males also have longer flowing fins than females too. Even so you likely won't see many like this guy:



Just an incredible specimen.

Yet that's not to say that breeders haven't been busy doing what they can for the fairer sex.  Because breeding these bubblenesters has evolved over the years and believe it or not breeders have now started to develop better selection techniques so they can produce some females that also come in different, more exciting colors too. They are no longer all greyed up. 

Just don't get your hopes up.  As despite those advances they'll still never compete with their drop dead gorgeous brothers.  They still don't come anywhere close to the gaudy colors and impressive fins of these fishy male hunks.  That are more or less living pinwheels of colors coming in almost any hue you could want. 

CONCLUSION: So that's the appeal of male betta fish - a kaleidoscope of color.  Without a doubt it's truly a colorful world inside a tank with one of these guys, don't you think? More so than with almost any other tropical fish you can name.  So that's why when it comes to voting with your dollars, the guys have it all over the gals.

Saturday, November 17, 2012

Five Unexpected Ways to Affect Betta Fish Life Span


INTRODUCTION: It's a common question.  Asked in various ways in various places online.  Like Yahoo Answers, betta or tropical fish forums, as well as in comments on blog posts.  But it comes down to pretty much the same thing: When it comes to betta fish life span, what can I expect?  How long will my pet live? 

And it's also a thoroughly reasonable question knowing that tropical fish will have a shorter life in many cases than other pets.  Certainly there are exceptions but generally speaking fish are simply not going to be all that long lived.  So it's helpful to have an idea of what you're dealing with, no? 

But as questions go I feel this one, or at least when asked this way, misses the point.  Rather than asking about expected lifespan directly, it might be better to ask what affects life span and how can you prolong it.  See the difference?  Because while an expiration date is more of less baked into their DNA, typically given as three to five years, there are many things the betta keeper does that can affect how long their finny friend will be around.  Because far too many of these guys don't live anywhere near that long.  In fact some measure their personal longevity in months or weeks even.  Such a premature death is too bad especially when it is easily avoidable.

WATER QUALITY
The first thing that can affect life span is water quality.  And don't just skim past this as it's a biggy.  Because long betta life often comes down to two words: water quality.  If you are diligent about doing water changes so that their water doesn't become toxic you are taking a good first step to maximizing life span.  Because even if the water looks good, it's clear, doesn't smell, etc, ammonia and other unseen contaminates could be building up to dangerous levels if you aren't replacing water on a regular basis.  And these pollutants can kill. 

WATER TEST KIT
This is also why knowing your way around a water test kit would be next on the list to things to do.  Most male bettas with a long life ahead of them have their water tested, and tested often.  And not with those notoriously unreliable test strips either, but using a full-blown water test kit.  Where you draw a tiny vile's worth of tank water, add a precise number of drops of reactant and then compare the resulting color to a chart to see what's what.  Sure the better ones can cost a tad more than your flimsy run-of-the-mill strips.  But since you get a better read on water conditions they are well worth it, even mandatory, if you ask me.  At least if you're serious about maximizing beta life span. 

TANK SIZE
While on the topic of water, the amount of water your fish is kept in goes a long way to determining how long your betta with maintain its youthful zest for life, let alone being alive.  And you don't need to consult a crystal ball to come to that conclusion. 

Those fighting fish kept in a tiny bowl with frigid water temps are not likely to be found wearing funny hats at too many New Year's celebrations.  Cold water aside, noxious substances that lead directly to death without passing GO, can skyrocket out of control in no time.  Before you know it your veiltail will be floating belly up and you are left to wonder why.  While the why should be obvious, it's too late at that point to do much about it.  This is why you shouldn't bother even asking the how long question if you aren't willing to address the how much.  As in how much water.  And housing your fish in at least a five gallon tank that can be properly heated and filtered is the minimum in my book.  Doing so may not be an absolute guarantee of longevity, but it's certainly another step in the right direction. 

WATER TEMPS
Along the same lines if you can't be bothered to heat the water tropically you might was well work out a beta fish flush routine in the bathroom because you'll be using it often. I'm not saying you need to get a top of the line titanium alloy submersible heater to keep your flaming red crowntail comfy, but you do need to rely on something more than room temp to do the job.  Like a nice Tetra heater perhaps.  That way you won't find your beta wrapped in java fern yearning to be warm at least. 

 For those looking for more help, here's a short video the covers the basics of choosing a fish tank heater. 



Video takeaways:  It's good to remember that you get what you pay for with aquarium heaters.  Aside from that this is a good quick overview of lower priced heaters and what advantages a step up to submersibles might offer.  That and a couple of other useful tips you won't want to miss. 

MENU CHOICES
Finally do you feed flakes or pellets?  Not as funny as boxer or briefs perhaps, but flakes are a nearly surefire way to have your fish looking for help in the morning at some point.  They can swell up in their bellies and create bloat faster than you can spell C-O-N-S-T-A-P-A-T-I-O-N.  Which is why anymore those looking to have their fish a long time rely on pellets.  With occasional frozen treats like blood worms and brine shrimp to create a bit of added excitement on the menu.  Because the wrong food choice is simply a bad choice. And yet another misstep easily avoided by those looking to tap the maximum life span they can for their betta fish.

Monday, November 12, 2012

Feeding Secrets For Busy Betta Keepers

INTRODUCTION: Few things are as important to the well-being of your betta than the food you feed.  Problem is too many evaluate a brand based on price.  And I can understand you've got a budget even when it comes to what you feed your that tiny bettafish of yours.  But like most things you get what you pay for.  Not to mention that if you're feeding them a stead diet of el-cheap-o-pellets the one who pays in the end is your pet.

Also most will advise you feed a varied diet.  Which is a good thing too.  I'm not suggesting varying the menu in a way that your betta would think they're dining at a five star restaurant every day, but it can't hurt to offer a bit of variety. Pellets day in and day out might get old just like a steady diet of shredded wheat might for you.  And you might conclude that anyway given the gusto with which they attack treats like frozen brine shrimp or bloodworms.

Still you want your betta to get used to eating pellets as their staple diet.  The best offer a well-rounded food source that meets their everyday nutritional needs.

So save the prey food for special occasions, I say.  Although it can be nonstop fun watching your guy track down unsuspecting mosquito larvae and inhaling them with great joy. And satisfaction.  I mean you can just tell he's proud of himself for a job well done.  Besides experiences like this from time to time gets their blood moving and unleashes inbred instincts by letting them do what they do naturally.  Hunt.

Okay but getting back to pellets, you'll know you're getting a quality product by reading what's inside.  And the label would be a good indicator of what's inside.

Basically you want to see things listed that are meat based.  Well, in this case a product that goes heavy on some kind of marine protein.  You'll know you're on the right track if you see things like krill and herring meals or other fish meals heading the ingredient list.  You're off track if you see things like that suggest a vegetable base like wheat or corn.  Remember these guys are hunters not farmers.

Another clue of quality is the protein percentage.  It's a shortcut yet not a foolproof way to evaluate the quality of betta food.  Still a number hovering around 40% for protein content is likely going to be good enough.

For this reason many swear by the offerings from New Life Spectrum and Omega One.  Feeling they are  some of the best brands of betta food you can buy.

Going the quality route also means that on those days when you can't lavish time and attention on your finny friend, you can offer up a few pellets confident your fish isn't going to suffer because of it.  In other words drop a couple two three pellets in the tank, wish your betta a good day and rush out the door. Free from any guilt that you should have done more.

You can always make up for it later on treat days.  Giving your little guy some frozen blood worm, brine shrimp, or glass worms - if you can find them.  Just be careful to remove any uneaten leftovers so it's not left to fester, decompose and ultimately foul their water.  And don't go crazy.  Otherwise you may be seeking help to cure a  raging case of bettafish constipation

CONCLUSION:  Just like man doesn't live on bread alone, bettas feel likewise about pellets.   But if pellets are the mainstay, don't scrimp.  The best will cost less than a medium pizza.  That you'll enjoy for a few minutes.  While top notch betta food will benefit your lil buddy for their lifetime.

Tuesday, November 6, 2012

What Is the Ideal Betta Fish Tank Size?

INTRODUCTION: Let me ask you.  Are you housing that fabulous black halfmoon betta of yours in a home that they consider to be a Super Bowl at least?  Or is it more the equivalent of a tiny snow globe?  With them being the one found in the falling snow?  (And by "snow" I mean fish poop.) 

Now if you're of a mind that bettas can thrive in a small bowled environment, you might want to think again.  Oh they can survive alright.  Much like you could survive in a refrigerator box under a bridge - for a while.  But sooner or later the elements would get you.  Just like sooner or later bad water would get any finny inhabitant of a tiny bowl. 

So if you want a pet that is very active, that darts all about, that is constantly on patrol, that is happy and eats well, then set your sights on a bigger tank.  Please!

Most will tell you five gallons is good.  And it is.  But I'm here to tell you 10 gallons is better if you have the space for it. Ideal even.  Reason being the water quality will be more stable.  The temperature will be more stable.  And it will be less work for you to keep it that way.  Better for you, better for him.  What's not to like?

While anything less than five gallons will cramp his style.  Not to mention that unfiltered bowls invite quicker fish waste build up which can lead to the poisoning of your fish.  Literally.  And who wants that?

So.  Your ideal set up might come down to the tank, a submersible heater, a gentle sponge filter, some real or silk plants - skip the plastic ones they can be hard on the fins, smooth stones instead of rough gravel for much the same reason, and a cover of some sorts.  Yes, these guys are notorious jumpers unfortunately. 

Bottom line, if you bother to heat and filter their space, they'll be happier and more active.  Plus in this kind of set up the water quality will tend to be good and stable.  It will also tend to be good and warm and you can keep it that way safely.  Plus the extra space will make for a grateful, happier, more active fish.

And don't forget that bettas are labyrinth types.  So being air breathing they like to gulp some surface air from time to time.  That means you don't want to fill the tank to the top.  Leave a couple two three inches of breathing or head room - literally.

Result?  A happier more active fish. 

Granted bettas and fish in general have limited reasoning powers.  Quite often their brain runs through a simple progression when they encounter something for the first time which often comes down to three light bulb moments:

1) Is this food? - if so let's eat
2) Does it look at me as food? if so get me outta here
3) Is this a possible mate?  if so then it's show time!

Happiness doesn't really enter into the equation.  But you can still tell a happy betta from an unhappy one.  Just head to any big box pet store and see those poor souls stuck in tiny bowls if you need to see what an unhappy one looks like.

CONCLUSION:  These guys can be great companions.  So why not give your black halfmoon male a really great home?  One that all but insures a great life rather than just getting by.

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

A Fireworks of Colors Take Bettas From Muddy to Magnificent

INTRODUCTION: What are the first things that cross your mind when you think of betta fish? Fighting?  Bubble nests?  Something else? Oh, right! Who could miss the rainbow of bold colors and fancy flowing tails?  Even Stevie Wonder can see that. 

Given the array of finery they come adorned in today, it's hard to believe that they once sported rather boring mud browns and dull grays.  That was before the era of breeding betta fish for flash and sex appeal. Back in the days breeding them for color and fins had not yet become widespread. Aside from dull coloration, in the wild and under constant threat they enjoyed a rather abbreviated betta fish life span at best. While if kept for sport, those guys didn't necessarily live much longer either. 

As you know, the origin of bettas can be traced back to the rice paddies of Asia. Their colors fairly resembled the muddy waters in which they strived to survive - again gray, brown or silver with specks of other colors at best. And their fins were nothing extraordinary either.  Until the Thai people discovered how these fish make great fighters. (That's why they're also called the Siamese fighting fish) And from there people have become more passionate about these weeny water warriors that they developed a wide range of techniques for breeding them. Today, you see them swimming in all colors of the rainbow and then some. While flashing tails and fins that come in many fancy forms.

Maybe this is why bettas are easily and widely recognized.  They do come in a sorts of tail shapes alright.  Males are arrayed in brilliant colors with long flamboyant flowing fins.  Besides any more they come in almost any color you can imagine. Gone are the common grays and browns displayed on limited finnage.  You can get males and females even that are all colors of the rainbow.  Copper.  Copper Mustard.  Lavender.  Pale Cellophone.  Dazzling super reds.  Opaque whites or white platinum.  Metallic. Blue Bi-colored tourquoise/orange.  Black.  Yellow.    Purple.  Royal Blue. Stunning colors that have to be seen to be believed.  And even more indescribable combinations.  Solids.  Patterns.  Butterfly. Bodies one color, fins another.  Truly hues of living jewels. 

Of course as is said, a picture is worth a 1000 words, which makes you wonder what a video like this one is worth?






Gorgeous fish, no?  And actually having colors like those flashing in your tank is just simply a daily personal firework's like display of luminosity that won't quit, don't you think? 

You can't imagine what it feels like to have fish like those.  But if you had to sum that feeling up in one word, well one comes to mind after just a few seconds in the presence of such intense, iridescent coloration.  And unlike contestants on the game show "Wheel of Fortune" you don't even need to buy a vowel.  As that word would be "awesome"!

CONCLUSION:  Wouldn't you love to feel awesome too?  

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Betta Boredom Beaters

INTRODUCTION:  From time to time newer betta owners ask on forums or Yahoo Answers about their pet's level of activity.  They are clearly worried they need to do more to keep their fish stimulated.  In other words they are worried that there fish is bored.  Or lonely.  And are looking for things they can do to make its life a bit more exciting. 

Technically there is a term for this. It's called behavioral enrichment.  And without getting all scientific on you, basically it comes down to providing stimuli to enrich the environment pets like bettas find themselves in.  This can come in several forms.  You might do something that involves their senses.  It might mean making feeding more stimulating.  It may involve objects they interact with.  It may involve toys.  As you can see there are various ways you can bring some excitement into their life. 

Of course the first thing to do is make sure you've got suitable housing.  Often times bettas turn into couch potatoes and just lie around because they are freezing cold. Or they are often housed in cramped quarters.  Or both. So make sure you have a large enough tank, not a bowl, that can be safely heated to at least 78 degrees F.  A space where they have plenty of room to roam and swim around.  Because if you think about it, you'd be bored out of your mind too in a cold, pint sized bowl where you can barely turn around.  Not much to look forward to in those conditions. 

Next, castle ruins, shipwrecks, cliffs and caves are all common aquarium ornaments you can place in the tank to offer some visual stimulation for your fish.  Then too some of these, like caves or silk plants even, provide a sanctuary should your fish become frightened.  You can oftentimes find these at garage sales for next to nothing if you keep your eyes open.  Just be sure to clean them in a mild bleach solution, diluted white vinegar or salt water first and leave them out in the sun to sanitize them.

The trick with these is to rotate what ornaments you have in the tank from week to week.  This change of pace can be both visually stimulating and can keep your fish entertained as it explores it's "new" space and adjusts to their new surroundings. 

You can also make feeding time more than merely dropping in two or three pellets and then leaving.  You can train your crowntail to him to take food off your finger or the end of an eye dropper.  Works great with frozen blood worms.  Most bettas will swim a mile for a tasty blood worm.  Which also makes them great rewards for training.

Toys are another way some entertain their fish.  And some find their finny charges respond well to ping pong balls floating on the surface.  Some betas will flare at them.  Others will push them around.  Others still will ignore them entirely.  Which is to say there is no one size fits all solution when it comes to curing betta boredom.  If your guy doesn't respond to white see if neon orange or hot pink grab their attention better.

A simple mirror that allows your betta to see themselves and react by flaring or defending his space, while more controversial, is yet another tool in your behavioral enrichment tool bag.  I even came across a floating "exercise mirror" for sale online that since it moves around gives your fish something to chase, react to, and "exercise" with. Some will circle the intruder.  Others might push it around or nip at it.  It then leaves your betta with something to swim around looking for even after you take it out of the water and even if it was just his own image. 

Honestly this is a polarizing type idea.  Some love it.  Others hate it.  Very few are in the middle.  I'm not saying to let your betta see and react to his image in a mirror constantly.  But for a few minutes it can give him something to get excited about, that's for sure. Besides it fires up natural betta behavior which I personally feel is a good thing.

CONCLUSION: Being naturally clever and curious, bettas can get into stuff like this.  So that with just a bit of effort you easily can keep your halfmoon entertained and doing more than just laying around all day.  Good for them. Entertaining for you.  What's not to like?